Day 48 - October 5, 2026

Art, Coffee, and the Quiet Elegance of Rome

By my fourth day in Rome, the city had begun to feel familiar.

I no longer felt the urge to rush from one famous monument to another. Instead, I found myself enjoying the simple rhythm of Roman life—taking care of small things, lingering over coffee, wandering without a strict plan, and allowing the city to reveal itself one beautiful surprise at a time.

A Relaxed Morning

The morning began with another leisurely hotel breakfast before walking to Boho Nails Roma for my manicure.

It was one of those pleasant little travel rituals that makes a long journey feel sustainable—taking care of ordinary things while living in extraordinary places.

With freshly manicured nails, I headed toward what would become the highlight of the day.

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj

I had originally considered spending the day exploring Ancient Rome.

Instead, I chose Palazzo Doria Pamphilj.

It turned out to be one of the very best decisions of my entire stay in Rome.

From the outside, the palace gives almost no hint of what lies behind its walls.

Inside, however, room after room unfolds into an astonishing private world of art, history, and aristocratic splendor.

Unlike many museums, nothing felt sterile.

The palace still feels like a home—because in many ways, it still is.

Walking through richly decorated rooms surrounded by painted ceilings, silk-covered walls, crystal chandeliers, antique furniture, and paintings covering nearly every available surface, I never felt as though I was visiting a museum.

I felt as though I had been invited into the home of one of Rome’s great families.

Meeting the Pamphilj Family

As I wandered through the palace, I became almost as interested in the family as in the art itself.

The story begins with Pope Innocent X, whose election transformed the fortunes of the Pamphilj family and left an unmistakable mark on Rome.

The palace itself became far more than simply a residence.

It became a statement of power, culture, ambition, and extraordinary taste.

Unlike many aristocratic collections that were eventually dispersed, the Doria Pamphilj collection remained remarkably intact through centuries of careful stewardship and family history.

Even today, descendants of the family still live in part of the palace, making it feel less like a museum and more like a living piece of history.

Learning about the family’s story—their marriages, inheritances, famous ancestors, and even modern family disputes—made the paintings feel connected to real people rather than anonymous collectors from centuries ago.

Masterpieces That Stay With You

The palace is filled with extraordinary works of art, but several have stayed with me.

Velázquez’s Portrait of Pope Innocent X is every bit as powerful as its reputation suggests. Standing before it, I understood why it is considered one of the greatest portraits ever painted. The pope’s penetrating gaze seems almost unsettlingly alive, as though he is quietly judging every visitor who enters the room.

The Caravaggios were equally memorable.

His Rest on the Flight into Egypt surprised me with its tenderness and tranquility, while Penitent Magdalene revealed how much emotion can be expressed through remarkable simplicity.

I also spent time learning about the Brueghel family of painters and discovered that their works reward slow looking. Every inch contains another tiny story waiting to be discovered.

The entire collection invited exactly the opposite of rushing.

It invited lingering.

More Than a Museum

Perhaps what impressed me most wasn’t any single masterpiece.

It was the experience of seeing all of them exactly where they had lived for centuries.

The paintings weren’t isolated on minimalist white walls.

They remained surrounded by velvet, marble, mirrors, chandeliers, family portraits, and beautifully decorated rooms that formed part of the artwork itself.

The palace reminded me that these masterpieces were originally meant to be lived with.

That realization changed the way I experienced every room.

Coffee with Friends

After leaving the palace, I met friends at Slow – Specialty Coffee & Pastry Lab, a wonderful little café that turned out to be one of the best coffee stops of my time in Rome.

Excellent coffee, delicious pastries, and relaxed conversation made it the perfect place to sit for a while and simply enjoy the afternoon.

It’s exactly the kind of place I love discovering while traveling—modern, unpretentious, and filled with people who clearly appreciate great coffee.

An Afternoon Wander

From there, we wandered toward the Pantheon, hoping to step inside before closing.

Unfortunately, by the time we arrived, around 6:20 p.m., it was no longer possible to visit.

Rather than being disappointed, we simply kept walking.

Our stroll eventually brought us toward Piazza del Popolo, where I had hoped to see the famous Caravaggio paintings inside the Basilica of Santa Maria del Popolo.

But Rome had another plan.

The church was closed for Mass, so once again, the paintings would have to wait for another visit.

Oddly enough, neither disappointment felt frustrating.

They simply became part of an afternoon spent wandering through Rome without urgency, enjoying the city exactly as it unfolded.

A Different Side of Rome

Leaving the historic center behind, I continued into Flaminio, a neighborhood very different from the Rome most visitors experience.

Quieter, residential, and unmistakably local, it offered a glimpse into everyday Roman life beyond the postcard views.

It felt refreshing to end the day somewhere that wasn’t trying to impress tourists.

Dinner at Aroma Flaminio

The neighborhood turned out to hide another wonderful discovery.

At Aroma Flaminio, I enjoyed one of the most memorable dinners of the trip.

I began with a beautifully prepared red prawn tartare, delicately seasoned with cashews, truffle, and orange zest. It sounded unusual on paper, but every flavor complemented the sweetness of the shrimp beautifully.

For my main course, I chose roasted octopus served with porcini mushrooms and chestnut jam.

It was unmistakably autumnal—smoky, earthy, slightly sweet, and unlike anything I had eaten elsewhere during my travels. The combination of tender octopus with the richness of porcini and the subtle sweetness of chestnut was both comforting and surprisingly elegant.

It was exactly the kind of neighborhood restaurant I hope to find when traveling: excellent food, no pretension, and a room filled mostly with locals rather than tourists.

Another perfect recommendation.

Reflections

Today’s Rome felt very different from the Rome of guidebooks.

There were no ancient ruins, no long lines, and no race from one famous monument to the next.

Instead, there was a magnificent private palace, stories of powerful families whose influence shaped the city for centuries, masterpieces that rewarded patient looking, wonderful coffee shared with friends, leisurely walks through beautiful streets, a few doors that happened to be closed, and an unforgettable dinner in a neighborhood far removed from the tourist crowds.

I realized something today.

The longer I stay in a city, the less interested I become in checking off famous sights.

Instead, I begin looking for places that reveal its true character.

Today, Rome revealed another layer of itself—one built not only on emperors and ancient ruins, but on families, collectors, neighborhood cafés, quiet streets, hidden restaurants, and the simple pleasure of slowing down enough to notice them.

 

Day 47 - October 4, 2026 

A Perfect Roman Sunday

Some days are built around famous monuments.

Others become memorable because of the unexpected moments that happen in between.

Today was one of those days.

It wasn’t about checking another landmark off the list. Instead, it became a day of beautiful discoveries, wonderful conversations, thoughtful shopping, and one magical Roman evening that couldn’t possibly have been planned.

A Leisurely Roman Morning

I began the day with a wonderful buffet breakfast at the hotel, taking my time instead of rushing out the door. After weeks of trains, changing hotels, and constantly moving from place to place, it felt luxurious to simply enjoy a slow morning.

With coffee in hand, I made only a loose plan. There were a few practical errands, but nothing that required watching the clock. It was exactly the kind of relaxed day I had been craving.

Shopping Like a Roman

I spent the morning wandering through the streets of Monti and central Rome, searching for a few meaningful gifts to bring home.

Rather than visiting international luxury stores, I found myself drawn to independent Italian boutiques and artisan shops, looking for things that genuinely reflected the craftsmanship and style I had been discovering throughout the trip.

Finding the right gifts turned out to be surprisingly satisfying. There is something special about bringing home objects that carry a sense of place rather than simply a recognizable brand. Every little shop had its own personality, and I enjoyed taking my time, comparing fabrics, colors, and craftsmanship instead of rushing from one purchase to the next.

The Discovery of Jia Li

Then came the surprise of the day.

Walking through the streets of Monti, I wandered into Jia Li, a small independent boutique that immediately felt like one of those discoveries every traveler hopes to make.

This wasn’t fast fashion or international luxury. It was thoughtful design, beautiful fabrics, comfortable silhouettes, and clothing with real personality.

One piece caught my eye.

Then another.

Then another.

Before I knew it, I had accidentally assembled what felt like an entirely new Roman capsule wardrobe.

Everything somehow worked together—understated elegance, interesting shapes, and just enough originality to feel unlike anything waiting for me back home.

At one point I simply laughed.

I had very clearly exceeded my imaginary shopping budget for the trip.

But looking at everything together later that evening, it didn’t feel impulsive at all. Every piece reminded me of wandering through Monti, discovering hidden boutiques, and falling in love with contemporary Italian design.

Sometimes travel brings home memories in photographs.

Sometimes it brings them home in clothes you’ll wear for years.

A Small Adventure with Chase

In the middle of all the shopping, my phone suddenly buzzed.

Possible fraud detected.

Chase had declined an unfamiliar online transaction.

For a little while, the day turned into detective work.

I mentally reconstructed every purchase from the previous several days—museum tickets, transit passes, coffee, hotels, restaurants, taxes, shopping—trying to identify whether I had simply forgotten something.

Eventually it became clear that the mysterious charge wasn’t mine.

Fortunately, the physical card was still safely in my wallet, Chase had already blocked the suspicious transaction, and I was able to report it immediately. Crisis avoided.

Every long journey seems to include at least one unexpected administrative adventure.

A Well-Earned Pause

After all the excitement, I realized I needed a break.

Carrying several shopping bags, I stopped at Luna for a cappuccino and a maritozzo, Rome’s iconic sweet brioche filled with freshly whipped cream.

I found a cozy table inside, away from the bustle of the street, and finally had a chance to slow down. Looking through my purchases over coffee, I realized there was no rush anymore. The errands were nearly finished, the card situation had been resolved, and I could simply enjoy what had become one of the most unexpectedly satisfying shopping days of the entire trip.

Sometimes the best travel moments aren’t attached to famous landmarks.

Sometimes they’re simply a good coffee, an indulgent pastry, tired feet, and the quiet satisfaction of a day unfolding even better than expected.

One Practical Necessity

There was only one consequence of my shopping success.

By late afternoon, I had officially outgrown my luggage.

After a bit of friendly negotiation at a local luggage shop, I walked away with a lightweight expandable suitcase that would safely carry the growing collection of treasures I had accumulated over the past seven weeks.

Problem solved.

Piazza Navona at Sunset

With all my shopping safely back at the hotel, the rest of the evening belonged entirely to Rome.

I walked to Piazza Navona, arriving just as the golden light softened across Bernini’s magnificent Fountain of the Four Rivers.

Knowing the stories behind the fountain—the four great rivers, the Pamphilj family, the ancient Stadium of Domitian hidden beneath the piazza, and the artistic rivalry between Bernini and Borromini—made me appreciate the square even more.

It is one of those places where history doesn’t feel distant.

It feels alive.

An Unexpected Celebration

From Piazza Navona I wandered toward Trastevere.

As I crossed into the neighborhood, the atmosphere changed completely.

The streets were absolutely packed—not only with visitors, but with what felt like large numbers of young Romansenjoying their Sunday evening. There were certainly plenty of tourists, but what struck me most was how alive the neighborhood felt with locals. Friends gathered in piazzas, people stood chatting outside bars with drinks in hand, restaurants buzzed with conversation, and every narrow street seemed full of energy.

Then the music began.

Banners appeared.

Clergy in ceremonial robes walked slowly through the neighborhood while a marching band followed behind.

At first, I honestly thought I had stumbled upon a funeral procession.

Instead, I had accidentally arrived during the celebrations for the Feast of St. Francis of Assisi, commemorating the 800th anniversary of his death.

The timing couldn’t have been more meaningful.

Only a few days earlier I had stood inside the Basilica of St. Francis in Assisi, learning about his extraordinary life and philosophy. Now, completely by chance, I found myself watching Romans celebrate his feast day in one of the city’s most beautiful neighborhoods.

Travel has a remarkable way of creating these unexpected connections.

Dinner at Jacopa

Dinner was at Jacopa, and it became one of my favorite meals in Rome.

Instead of a traditional trattoria, Jacopa offered beautifully prepared contemporary Italian cuisine served as small plates that invited sharing and conversation.

The dishes were creative without trying too hard—seasonal ingredients, thoughtful combinations, and elegant presentation without unnecessary complexity.

Even better, I spent the evening with friends, making the meal feel less like another restaurant visit and more like a celebration of everything the day had become.

And then, as if Rome still had one last surprise waiting…

Fireworks suddenly exploded above Trastevere.

The sky lit up while the celebration of St. Francis continued below, creating one of those magical travel moments that no itinerary could ever predict.

Reflections

Today reminded me that some of the best travel experiences happen when you leave room for spontaneity.

I set out with only a handful of practical errands in mind.

Instead, I discovered one of my favorite boutiques of the entire trip, found meaningful gifts, solved a small credit-card mystery, accidentally built a Roman wardrobe, enjoyed a leisurely cappuccino and maritozzo, negotiated a new suitcase, wandered through Piazza Navona at sunset, stumbled into an eight-hundred-year-old religious celebration, shared a wonderful dinner with friends, and ended the evening beneath unexpected fireworks over Trastevere.

There wasn’t a single museum or famous monument that defined the day.

Instead, it was Rome itself—the neighborhoods, the craftsmanship, the cafés, the surprises, the celebrations, and the effortless way history and everyday life continue to intertwine—that made this one of the most memorable days of my journey.

I walked back to the hotel smiling, grateful once again that some of the very best travel days are the ones you could never have planned.

 

Day 46 - October 3, 2026

Tivoli, Fountains & an Evening in Monti

After several wonderful days in Umbria, today was devoted to one of the great treasures just outside Rome: Tivoli.

I joined a guided day tour that included both Hadrian’s Villa (Villa Adriana) and Villa d’Este—two UNESCO World Heritage Sites that complement one another beautifully, telling the story of Rome from two very different eras.

Hadrian’s Villa

We began at the vast imperial estate built by Emperor Hadrian in the 2nd century AD. It felt less like visiting a palace and more like walking through the remains of an entire city.

The enormous baths, libraries, temples, gardens, pools, and ceremonial spaces gave a glimpse into the extraordinary scale of imperial Rome. Hadrian was fascinated by architecture and travel, and throughout the complex he recreated places that had inspired him during his journeys across the empire.

Even in ruins, the villa conveys a remarkable sense of ambition and sophistication. Standing among the remains, it wasn’t difficult to imagine philosophers strolling beneath colonnades, servants hurrying between buildings, and the emperor himself seeking moments of quiet reflection away from Rome.

Our guide, unfortunately, wasn’t the highlight of the day. She tended to be repetitive and, if I’m being honest, a bit annoying. I found myself enjoying the visit most when I wandered a few steps behind the group, exploring at my own pace and letting my imagination fill in the stories that the stones still tell.

Villa d’Este

If Hadrian’s Villa impressed me intellectually, Villa d’Este completely stole my heart.

Although many of the famous fountains weren’t operating at full strength because the river water feeding the system was temporarily too dirty, the gardens were still absolutely breathtaking.

Walking through the terraces, it became immediately clear why Villa d’Este is considered one of the greatest masterpieces of Renaissance landscape design. Everywhere I looked there was another perfect composition of cascading water, elegant staircases, cypress trees, sculptures, and sweeping views over the countryside.

Some of my favorite highlights included:

• The magnificent Hundred Fountains, stretching endlessly along the garden wall.
• The dramatic Oval Fountain, one of the villa’s most iconic and beautiful features.
• The impressive Neptune Fountain, still stunning even without its full display.
• Countless smaller fountains tucked into hidden corners, each creating its own peaceful atmosphere.

It would honestly be impossible to choose a single favorite. Every few minutes I found myself stopping to admire another view or another ingenious water feature.

An incredible place that felt both grand and deeply peaceful.

Lunch

For lunch I stopped at Da Andrea a Villa d’Este, just outside the gardens.

I ordered homemade gnocchi with lamb ragù, a wonderfully comforting meal after a morning of walking through ancient ruins and Renaissance gardens. Simple, flavorful, and exactly what the day called for.

An Evening Walk Through Ancient Rome

After returning to Rome, I wandered through the streets around the Roman Forum, soaking in the atmosphere as daylight softened into evening. Rather than entering the archaeological sites, I simply enjoyed walking among the ruins that have shaped so much of Western history.

From there, I caught beautiful views of the Colosseum in the distance. Seeing its massive silhouette rising above the city, especially after spending the morning at Hadrian’s Villa, tied together the different chapters of Rome’s extraordinary past.

Shopping in Monti

I continued into Monti, one of my favorite neighborhoods in Rome, where the afternoon gradually turned into a delightful shopping adventure.

Instead of international luxury brands, I discovered independent Italian designers creating clothing with personality, beautiful fabrics, and distinctive cuts.

I found several pieces that felt uniquely Italian and far more interesting than anything I would have found in a department store. It was one of those afternoons where every little side street seemed to hide another inviting boutique, making it almost impossible to stop looking “just one more shop.”

Dinner at Valerio

To end the day, I had dinner at Valerio Ristorante di Pesce, a cozy seafood restaurant tucked away on Via del Boschetto in Monti.

It turned out to be another excellent recommendation.

I began with a beautifully prepared tuna tartare, served in an Asian-inspired style. The tuna was exceptionally fresh, silky, and delicately seasoned, allowing the quality of the fish to shine without overwhelming it.

For my main course, I chose a perfectly cooked sea bass fillet (spigola). Moist, flaky, and elegantly simple, it reminded me how satisfying excellent ingredients can be when treated with restraint.

A glass of crisp white wine completed the meal.

The atmosphere was warm and relaxed, the service attentive without ever feeling intrusive, and after a full day of exploring, shopping, and walking, it was exactly the kind of dinner I had hoped for.

Reflections

Today beautifully captured the many faces of Rome.

In the morning, I wandered through the immense remains of an emperor’s dream. In the afternoon, I was enchanted by one of the world’s greatest Renaissance gardens. Later, I strolled through the heart of Ancient Rome, admired the Colosseum rising above the city, enjoyed discovering Monti’s independent boutiques, and finished the evening with an excellent seafood dinner.

Looking back, it was one of the most balanced days of the entire trip—combining imperial history, Renaissance beauty, leisurely exploration, shopping, and wonderful food. It reminded me that some of the best travel days aren’t about rushing from monument to monument, but about allowing the city to reveal itself one beautiful experience at a time.

 

Day 45 - October 2, 2026 

Rome at Last

After three memorable days in Perugia and wonderful excursions to Assisi and Spello, today marked the beginning of the final chapter of my European adventure: Rome.

The morning was intentionally unhurried. I checked out of Times Suites and boarded my direct regional train to Rome. After weeks of changing trains, navigating stations, and occasionally sprinting between platforms, this journey felt wonderfully simple. By early afternoon I arrived at Roma Termini and took a short taxi ride to my home for the next five nights: Relais Quattro Fontane.

My first impression of the hotel was very positive. It was clean, comfortable, and pleasantly understated rather than luxurious. What immediately stood out, however, was the location. Nestled near Barberini and Quirinale, it felt like the perfect base for exploring Rome on foot without constantly relying on transportation.

Rather than trying to squeeze in major sightseeing on arrival day, I kept the afternoon practical and relaxed. One of my first stops was a pharmacy, where I stocked up on a few items that had been on my shopping list: azelaic acid, estrogen, and Phyto hair oil. After comparing European skincare brands over the past few weeks, it was satisfying to take advantage of Italy’s excellent pharmacies before heading home.

Dinner was at I Girasoli, where I ordered ravioli accompanied by a glass of Grillo DOC Sicilia white wine. It was a quiet, pleasant first meal in Rome—exactly the kind of relaxed evening I wanted before the busy days ahead.

As the sun began to set, I walked to the Spanish Steps, enjoying my first Roman evening. There was no pressure to check landmarks off a list. Instead, I simply wandered, taking in the elegant streets, the warm October air, and the feeling of finally reaching the last destination of a journey that had begun nearly seven weeks earlier.

Afterward I returned to the hotel for an early night. Tomorrow would be my excursion to Tivoli, and I wanted to begin Rome feeling rested rather than exhausted.

Looking back, today wasn’t about seeing Rome’s greatest monuments. It was about arriving, settling in, and letting the city slowly introduce itself. After thousands of miles, countless train rides, mountain hikes, medieval towns, vineyards, lakes, and unforgettable meals across Europe, it felt surprisingly fitting that the final stop would begin so quietly.

 

Day 44 - October 1, 2026

Assisi, Spello, and a Day of Inspiration

Some places are beautiful because of their scenery. Others because of their history. Assisi is memorable for something more difficult to describe—it has a quiet spirit that seems to slow everyone down.

My day began in Perugia with one eye on the Italian rail strike that threatened tomorrow’s trip to Rome. After reviewing my options, I boarded the 11:48 train to Assisi, ready to put logistics aside and immerse myself in one of Italy’s most important pilgrimage destinations.

The Basilica of Saint Francis exceeded every expectation. Walking between the Upper and Lower Basilica felt like traveling through different worlds. The soaring Gothic architecture above contrasted beautifully with the intimate atmosphere below, where Saint Francis himself rests. Giotto’s frescoes brought his remarkable life to life, telling the story of a young man who abandoned wealth to embrace humility, compassion, and a profound love for nature.

One question stayed with me throughout the visit: how could someone who dedicated his life to poverty be honored with such a magnificent basilica? Learning the history helped answer that paradox. The grandeur was never intended to celebrate wealth, but to honor the extraordinary impact of a man whose message continues to inspire people more than eight centuries later.

After the basilica, I enjoyed lunch at Trattoria Pallotta, choosing homemade Capellacci. For once, I skipped the wine, content to enjoy a leisurely meal before continuing my walk through the town.

My next stop was the Basilica of Santa Chiara. Standing before the San Damiano Cross and learning about Clare’s unwavering devotion added another layer to the Franciscan story. I smiled at the unexpected connection between Saint Clare, Santa Clara in California, and my own life back home. Assisi also introduced me to Blessed Carlo Acutis, whose modern story reminds visitors that holiness isn’t confined to the distant past.

By mid-afternoon I took the short train ride to Spello, one of Umbria’s most enchanting villages. Wandering through its narrow stone lanes, overflowing flower boxes, and quiet corners felt wonderfully unhurried. The Baglioni Chapel, with Pinturicchio’s brilliant Renaissance frescoes, was a highlight, and simply getting lost among the beautifully decorated streets was part of the charm.

The return journey to Perugia involved the usual small dose of Italian rail puzzle-solving, but after sorting out the correct train I was soon back in the city for my final evening.

Dinner was at Ristorante del Sole, perched on the edge of the historic center with sweeping views over the Umbrian valley. This time I decided to follow ChatGPT’s recommendations to the letter—and it turned into one of my favorite meals in Perugia. I began with a perfectly slow-cooked egg served over silky Parmesan cream with freshly shaved truffle, a deceptively simple dish rich with earthy Umbrian flavors. For my main course, I chose wild boar braised with apples and onions, a wonderful combination of savory game meat balanced by the gentle sweetness of the fruit. I couldn’t resist dessert: a pear slowly poached in red wine, served with dark chocolate and mascarpone cream. It was an elegant and memorable finish to a meal that celebrated the region’s culinary traditions as beautifully as the day’s sightseeing celebrated its history.

Looking back, what made this day so memorable wasn’t just the extraordinary places I visited. It was the conversations they inspired. Francis and Clare weren’t simply historical figures whose churches I toured—they became people whose ideas still feel surprisingly relevant today. Combined with the peaceful beauty of Spello, the day offered a rare combination of history, art, spirituality, and quiet reflection.

Some destinations impress you with their monuments. Assisi and Spello quietly change the pace of your thoughts. That may be their greatest gift.

Day 43 - September 30th, 2026

Perugia: Layers of History and an Evening of Music

When I first planned my time in Umbria, I thought of Perugia mainly as a convenient base for visiting Assisi. By the end of the day, I realized that was selling the city far short. Perugia doesn’t demand attention the way Florence or Rome do—it reveals itself gradually, layer by layer, rewarding anyone willing to slow down.

I started the morning with breakfast at Pinturicchio Cafe+Kitchen, a relaxed beginning before setting out to explore the city.

One of the day’s highlights was the Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria. The museum offered a beautiful journey through Umbrian art, with masterpieces spanning the Middle Ages and the Renaissance. After weeks of visiting churches throughout France and northern Italy, seeing these paintings in their regional context made many familiar names and artistic styles come together in a new way.

From there I descended into one of Perugia’s most fascinating places: Rocca Paolina. Rather than simply touring a fortress, I found myself walking through an entire buried medieval neighborhood. Stone streets, arches, and passageways survive beneath the massive Renaissance fortress built after the city was conquered. Few places make history feel so tangible—you literally walk through one century while another rises above your head.

Perugia itself felt wonderfully authentic. It is a lively university city, but one that has managed to preserve its medieval character without feeling like an open-air museum. Wandering its streets, climbing staircases, and emerging unexpectedly into elegant piazzas became as enjoyable as visiting the major sights themselves.

Dinner was at Trattoria Oberdan, where I enjoyed bruschetta followed by creamy strangozzi pasta and a quarter-liter of local white wine. After a full day of walking, it was exactly the kind of simple Umbrian meal that felt comforting rather than elaborate.

The perfect ending came later that evening. I attended the closing concert of the 81st Sagra Musicale Umbra in the magnificent Basilica di San Pietro. The program featured Mendelssohn’s youthful and energetic Octet for Strings, Op. 20, followed by Mozart’s radiant Coronation Mass. Listening to live classical music inside such a beautiful basilica was one of those travel experiences that cannot be planned around landmarks alone. The music, the setting, and the atmosphere combined to create a memorable final chapter to the day.

Perugia surprised me. I expected a pleasant stopover. Instead, I discovered a city with remarkable depth—one where art, history, architecture, and music quietly weave together into an experience that feels distinctly Umbrian. It left me looking forward even more to what awaited the next day in Assisi.

 

Day 42 - September 29, 2026

From the Dolomites to the Heart of Umbria

Today marked the transition from the dramatic peaks of the Dolomites to the rolling hills of Umbria. It was a true travel day—one with a few unexpected adventures—but it all ended exactly the way I like: wandering beautiful streets, enjoying a wonderful dinner, and feeling excited about discovering a new region of Italy.

Leaving ADLER Dolomiti turned out to be more eventful than expected. My carefully planned journey began with an attempt to catch Bus 350 to Bolzano. When the bus arrived, however, it was already completely packed. There simply wasn’t enough room for passengers with luggage, and I had to watch it leave without me. It was one of those reminders that public transportation in popular mountain destinations can be unpredictable, especially during hotel checkout hours. Fortunately, the hotel quickly arranged a taxi. It wasn’t cheap—€125 for the ride to Bolzano—but with a reserved high-speed train to catch, it was money well spent and completely removed the stress of wondering whether another bus would have room. The drive through Val Gardena one last time was a beautiful farewell to one of my favorite places of the entire trip, and I reached Bolzano with plenty of time for my train.

The rail journey itself went smoothly for the most part, but not without a couple of adrenaline-filled moments.

The first came at Terontola-Cortona. As the train stopped, I discovered that the door nearest my seat refused to open. With only a brief stop at the station, I suddenly found myself racing through the carriage with my carry-on, backpack, and crossbody bag, hoping another door would work before the train departed. Thankfully it did, but those few seconds felt much longer than they really were.

The excitement wasn’t over yet. On the final regional train into Perugia, I realized I was once again in the wrong carriage to exit. As the train approached the station, I quickly gathered all my bags and hurried into the next car so I could step off before the doors closed. Thankfully I made it without incident, but by then I felt as though the journey had included one last travel challenge before welcoming me to Umbria.

Checking into Times Suites was easy, and before long I was wandering the medieval streets of Perugia for the first time.

My first impression was how dramatically different it felt from the Dolomites. Perugia rises gracefully over a hill, its narrow stone streets climbing between centuries-old buildings, with hidden stairways and unexpected little piazzas around every corner. I made my way to one of the panoramic viewpoints overlooking the Umbrian countryside, where layers of terracotta rooftops stretched toward soft green hills in the fading evening light. After days surrounded by towering limestone peaks, the gentler landscape felt like an entirely different Italy.

As darkness settled, I wandered through Piazza IV Novembre, admired the magnificent Fontana Maggiore, stood before the beautifully illuminated Palazzo dei Priori, and strolled along Corso Vannucci, where locals and students filled the cafés and streets late into the evening. The atmosphere felt vibrant yet relaxed—lively without being overwhelming. Before returning to the hotel, I paused once more at the panoramic terrace overlooking the Umbrian valleys. It was the perfect place to take in my first evening in this beautiful city.

Dinner was at I Birbi, a cozy local restaurant full of character. I began with Tortelli Ripieni di Squacquerone, Funghi di Stagione, Pesto di Rucola e Mandorle Tostate—delicate stuffed pasta filled with creamy Squacquerone cheese, served with seasonal mushrooms, arugula pesto, and toasted almonds. For my main course, I chose the wonderfully tender Pluma di Maiale Iberico de Bellota, paired with a glass of Viognier. The wine was light, fruity, and beautifully smooth—exactly the style I enjoy. While it wasn’t quite as gently sweet as my favorite white wines from France, it complemented both dishes perfectly and made for a memorable first dinner in Umbria.

Today wasn’t about checking off famous sights—it was about moving from one remarkable region of Italy to another. There were a few stressful moments, a few deep breaths, and a reminder that travel rarely unfolds exactly according to plan. Yet those little mishaps have a funny way of becoming the stories I remember most. Yesterday I was hiking beneath the towering cliffs of Seceda; tonight I was strolling through the medieval heart of Perugia with a glass of Italian wine still lingering in my memory. Italy has an incredible ability to reinvent itself from one region to the next, and today felt like turning the page to an entirely new chapter of this journey.