Day 3 — Falling in Love with Trieste

Sometimes the best travel days aren’t the ones filled with famous landmarks.

They’re the days when a city quietly stops feeling like a destination and starts feeling like somewhere you could imagine living.

That happened to me today.

I started the morning at Caffè degli Specchi, one of Trieste’s historic cafés overlooking Piazza Unità d’Italia. Sitting outside in the cool morning air with a cappuccino, sparkling water, and the surprisingly generous French breakfast special—egg, fresh salad and a warm ham-and-cheese panini—I watched one of Europe’s most beautiful squares slowly come alive.

The entire breakfast cost only €13, which somehow made the experience even sweeter.

After yesterday’s heat, the weather was perfect for walking.

Instead of chasing attractions, I simply wandered.

Through Piazza Cavana.

Past the Arco di Riccardo.

Up San Giusto Hill to the cathedral and castle.

Through the park.

Down toward the Roman Theatre.

No rush.

No checklist.

Just enjoying Trieste.

Lunch at Magna Bistrò turned out to be another wonderful surprise. A perfectly cooked steak with grilled vegetables and sparkling water for only €28.50—delicious, beautifully balanced, and exactly the right portion after a long morning walk.

Then came what I thought would be the biggest disappointment of the day.

I arrived at Madreperla, where I had made and confirmed a reservation earlier that morning, only to be told they had cancelled it because the restaurant was full. There was little explanation and even less apology.

For a moment I thought the evening had been ruined.

Instead, it became one of my favorite nights of the trip.

Just around the corner I discovered Skaramanzia, a small Greek restaurant with exceptional hospitality. My waiter brought several white wines for me to taste before helping me choose one from Campania that paired beautifully with slow-cooked lamb and vegetable caponata. Dessert was a delicate tiramisu cream that ended the evening perfectly.

Sometimes the backup plan becomes the memory.

In between meals I accidentally spent much of the afternoon building a little European wardrobe. After trying on dozens of pieces, I came home with several wonderful basics—but the clear winner was a pair of beautifully made patchwork linen pants. They somehow worked with nearly every top I owned, and back at the hotel I found myself happily creating outfit after outfit instead of worrying about packing.

By the end of the day I had walked nearly 17,000 steps, climbed 25 flights of stairs, and, surprisingly, didn’t feel tired at all.

The jet lag seems to have disappeared.

More importantly, something else happened.

Yesterday I admired Trieste.

Today I started falling in love with it.

Maybe it was the cooler weather.

Maybe it was finally settling into the rhythm of travel.

Or maybe Trieste simply reveals itself slowly.

It’s compact without feeling small.

Elegant without being pretentious.

Full of beautiful cafés, incredible coffee, wonderful little shops, and streets that invite you to wander without any particular destination.

For the first time since arriving, I caught myself thinking:

I’m actually sad that I’ll be leaving soon.

Day 2 – Miramare, Heat and a Quiet Trieste Evening

I woke up feeling surprisingly good after my first night in Trieste and was eager to start the day. Breakfast was at Brunch Republic, about a pleasant 15-minute walk from my hotel. I arrived around 9:15 AM and, although the place was clearly popular and busy, I had no trouble getting a table.

I ordered the Salmon Dance and an iced Coconut Cream Matcha. Both were absolutely delicious and beautifully presented. It was one of those breakfasts that feels a little indulgent but still fresh and light enough for a sightseeing day. I also noticed that practically everyone around me seemed to be ordering the Protein Pancakes, so apparently that is the thing to get here. Maybe next time!

From Brunch Republic, it was only about a two-minute walk to the stop for bus #6 to Miramare. I waited maybe five minutes. The bus was crowded, but I managed to get a seat and paid easily with my phone. From the bus stop near Miramare, the walk to the castle took about 15 minutes.

I decided to start with the gardens before going inside the castle. That turned out to be the right choice. The grounds are very pleasant, with beautiful views of the Adriatic and a nice mixture of formal gardens and more natural parkland. The lower formal areas had statues, bright flowers in bloom and manicured paths, while the upper park felt greener, quieter and more natural. On such a hot and muggy day, the shaded paths were especially welcome.

I spent about an hour wandering mostly through the formal gardens, stopping often to admire the sea views. Toward the end of the gardens I came across a small café and decided to take a break. I ordered a cappuccino and a bottle of water. The cappuccino was exceptionally good — one of those small unexpected pleasures that becomes a memorable part of the day.

Afterward I walked down toward the pier to see the sphinx before heading inside the castle.

There was a short line to enter, maybe 10–15 minutes, but it moved quickly. Inside there were plenty of visitors, but it never felt uncomfortably crowded.

The castle itself was interesting. I learned more about Archduke Maximilian of Austria and his wife Charlotte, and it was fascinating to see their richly furnished rooms. I especially liked the ceilings with all the beautiful wooden detailing. The rooms are elegant and very stately, and the whole place gives a good sense of the life they created here overlooking the Adriatic.

One of the more interesting parts for me was the contrast between Maximilian and Charlotte’s original 19th-century interiors and the more modern rooms created in the 1930s for Duke Amedeo of Savoy-Aosta and Princess Anne d’Orléans. Those later apartments felt noticeably different and made the castle more interesting because you could see two completely different periods layered into the same building.

Overall, I was glad I visited Miramare. It is beautiful and absolutely worth seeing while in Trieste, although I wouldn’t put it in the same category as something like Sintra in Portugal, which felt much more spectacular and dramatic to me. Miramare is more restrained — lovely gardens, wonderful setting, interesting history — but not overwhelmingly impressive.

By the time I finished, the heat and humidity were definitely getting to me. I retraced my route, took bus #6 back into town and walked to the hotel. I was hot, sticky and uncomfortable, and a shower immediately became the best idea in the world.

After cooling down and feeling human again, I went out for an early dinner at Adesso è Così, which had been recommended to me.

Unfortunately, this turned out to be the disappointment of the day.

I ordered essentially the same kind of meal I had eaten the night before — a whole grilled branzino with grilled vegetables. The bill came to €58, more than twice what I had paid the previous evening at Marinato for a very similar dinner. And the frustrating part was that it wasn’t even better. In fact, I thought yesterday’s fish and vegetables were noticeably better.

Because the fish was charged by weight, I couldn’t help wondering afterward whether I had somehow been overcharged or simply ended up with a much larger fish than I realized. Either way, the value felt poor and I would not go back.

After dinner I walked about 25 minutes to the historic Caffè San Marco. The café was surprisingly quiet when I arrived, which made it easy to look around and appreciate the interior. It immediately reminded me of the grand cafés in Vienna — elegant, old-fashioned and slightly intellectual in atmosphere.

I ordered a macchiato and their signature 1914 cake, which turned out to be absolutely delicious. The café itself was worth visiting just for the atmosphere, but the cake made the stop even better.

From there I slowly made my way back through the center and crossed Piazza Unità d’Italia again. The square was beautifully illuminated, but what struck me most was how quiet it felt. There were people drinking aperitivo at outdoor tables and some activity around the bars, but overall I expected much more evening energy.

In many other European cities, a grand central piazza like this would be bursting with street musicians, performers, families and people lingering late into the evening. Trieste feels different. So far it seems more subdued and reserved — elegant, peaceful and somewhat restrained rather than exuberant.

It wasn’t a bad thing, just surprising.

And despite all the warnings about thunderstorms, not a single storm arrived. The day stayed hot, muggy and dry from beginning to end.

By the time I returned to the hotel, I felt tired but happy. Miramare was lovely, the gardens were peaceful, the cappuccino was unexpectedly memorable, dinner was a miss, Caffè San Marco was a hit, and Trieste continued to reveal itself as a city that is quieter and more understated than I expected.

Today’s favorites

Best small moment: the cappuccino in the Miramare gardens.
Best food: Brunch Republic breakfast and the 1914 cake at Caffè San Marco.
Biggest disappointment: the €58 branzino dinner at Adesso è Così.
Most interesting observation: how surprisingly quiet Piazza Unità and central Trieste feel in the evening.
Overall impression: Miramare is beautiful and worth seeing, but Trieste itself is proving more subtle than dramatic.

 

Europe 2026

Day 1 (08/18-08/19) – From California to the Adriatic

After months of planning, dozens of reservations, countless spreadsheets, packing lists, and conversations with ChatGPT, the adventure finally began.

Boris drove me to San Francisco Airport early in the morning. The drive was smooth, and before I knew it we were saying goodbye. Leaving home for almost six weeks felt a little surreal. I was excited, but also slightly unsettled. It was by far the longest solo trip I had ever taken.

Security at SFO turned out to be the easiest I’ve ever experienced. There wasn’t a single person in line. Within minutes I was through and on my way to the Polaris Lounge.

The United Polaris Lounge at SFO is impressive. Spread over two floors, it offers plenty of seating areas, workspaces, shower suites, and a beautiful sit-down dining room. Although the lounge was fairly busy, it was still easy to find a comfortable place to relax. I waited about fifteen minutes for a table in the dining room and enjoyed scallops and peach burrata as appetizers. Both were delicious. Their signature Polaris burger was good, although not something I’d rave about. I skipped the bun and paired lunch with a glass of Italian Pinot Grigio—my first little taste of Europe before even leaving California.

Boarding was right on time, and I settled into seat 3A. The Polaris seat isn’t the newest business-class product out there, but I found it very comfortable and surprisingly private. The bedding was excellent, with two pillows, a cozy duvet, and an additional mattress pad that made sleeping much easier.

Dinner service was efficient and friendly. I had pre-ordered the black cod after hearing so many recommendations. It was perfectly fine, but I wouldn’t say it was a standout meal.

During the flight I watched The Housemaid, which I really enjoyed, continued reading Isabel Allende’s The House of the Spirits on my Kindle, and managed to sleep almost five hours—far better than I had expected. When I woke up, I brushed my teeth, freshened up, had scrambled eggs with cream cheese and coffee for breakfast, and watched a couple of episodes of The Office, which never fails to make me smile.

Before long we were descending into Rome.

Walking off the plane, I was immediately reminded that I was in Italy in August. The sun was blazing, and the temperature was around 90°F (32°C). From our arrival gate, passengers boarded an air-conditioned bus for the short ride to the main terminal. It was crowded but comfortable.

I followed the signs for transit passengers toward the A gates and encountered passport control. To my amazement, there wasn’t a single person in line. Everything was fully automated, and I was through immigration in less than a minute. It was probably the fastest passport control I’ve ever experienced.

My flight to Trieste was delayed by about half an hour, and there was still no gate assignment, so I decided to have lunch at Eataly.

I was genuinely impressed. The Eataly at Rome Airport is much larger than the one at Valley Fair back home, with numerous restaurants, cafés, fresh markets, and food counters. The entire place was buzzing with people and energy. For lunch I ordered a fresh salmon poke bowl with rice, avocado, edamame, mango, cucumber, and sesame. It was fresh, flavorful, and just the right size—not one of those oversized bowls that leaves you feeling stuffed. After lunch, I treated myself to a proper Italian cappuccino and half of a delicious pasticciotto filled with pastry cream and amarena cherries. It was the perfect little welcome to Italy.

Soon my gate - A46 - was finally announced.

The Rome to Trieste flight wasn’t very full, and once again I got lucky with an empty middle seat next to me. After all the worrying about carry-on weight before leaving home, nobody asked to weigh my luggage. I spent the short flight reading my Kindle while looking forward to finally reaching my first destination.

We landed in Trieste around 7:00 PM.

Trieste Airport was compact and easy to navigate. Within minutes I found the taxi stand. My driver was pleasant and welcomed me warmly. Instead of taking the congested coastal road, he took a scenic route parallel to the coast but higher up along the hillside.

It turned out to be the perfect introduction to Trieste.

As we climbed above the city, he pointed out the Istrian coastline, the lighthouse, and neighborhoods scattered across the hillsides. The Adriatic stretched out below us while the setting sun painted the water in brilliant shades of gold and orange. It was one of those magical arrivals that no amount of planning can create.

The taxi cost €90, and I paid with my credit card.

I had completed online check-in the day before, and the hotel had even called to make sure I had received all the access codes. Everything worked exactly as planned. Within minutes I was in my room.

My first impression of Maria Cristina Boutique Rooms was excellent.

The room is modern, recently renovated, stylish, and thoughtfully designed. The bathroom is beautiful, with a spacious walk-in shower, excellent lighting, a large standing mirror, comfortable bed, plenty of storage, and everything I could possibly need. Most importantly after nearly twenty hours of travel—it was wonderfully quiet.

I took a long, refreshing shower, unpacked just enough to settle in, and headed out to explore.

The waterfront was only a short walk away.

My first glimpse of Trieste was everything I had hoped for. The sea was perfectly calm, sailboats gently rocked in the harbor, and the evening light reflected beautifully across the Adriatic. The city felt elegant, peaceful, and completely different from anywhere else I had visited in Italy before. As I stood watching the sunset, I realized something.

I’m really here.

All the anxiety I had felt before leaving California was gone.

Following ChatGPT’s recommendation, I had dinner at Marinato, a seafood restaurant near the waterfront. I kept things simple and ordered grilled sea bass with roasted vegetables and a fresh salad. The fish was incredibly fresh, perfectly cooked, and exactly what I wanted after a long day of travel. Together with sparkling water, the entire dinner came to just €26, including the traditional Italian cover charge.

Walking back afterward, I couldn’t resist taking more photographs. The harbor looked even more beautiful after dark. Boats rested quietly in the marina, lights shimmered across the water, and the magnificent sailing yacht Koru sat anchored offshore against the fading twilight.

Back in my room, I couldn’t help but smile.

Every flight had gone smoothly.

Every reservation had worked.

The hotel was exactly what I hoped for.

Trieste had already charmed me.

What had started as a day filled with uncertainty ended with complete excitement for the next six weeks.

Tomorrow: Miramare Castle.

Day 9 Lucca/Montecatini Terme

     I was a bit tired from my travels and decided to sleep in. I woke up around 9am and had a delicious breakfast downstairs in the breakfast room. The food was really good. Since it was my last day in Lucca, I quickly packed my bags, checked out and had my bags stored at the hotel, while I explored the city some more. It was one of the very few rainy days in Italy during my trip, but it didn't stop me at all. I borrowed a large umbrella from the hotel and was on my way. My original plan was to rent a bike and ride it around the city wall, but since it was raining I decided that biking wouldn't be the best idea and decided to just walk around and enjoy the city instead. Just like yesterday, I enjoyed quaint, non-touristy Lucca, which has no major sites but simply is a beautiful medieval town. I was impressed with the cathedral and spend some time there admiring the paintings by Tintoretto, Fra Bartolomeo and Zucchari, as well as a exquisite tomb of Ilaria del Carretto by Jacopo della Quercia from Siena, which was commissioned by her husband Paolo Guinigi, the lord of Lucca. The cathedral also contains the most precious relic in Lucca - "The Holy Face of Lucca", which is a cedar wood crucifix and the image of Christ, which according to the legend was carved by his contemporary Nicodermus and miraculously conveyed to Lucca in 782. After visiting the cathedral I still wanted to explore the famous city wall. It remained fully intact, even though the city modernized and expanded. On the way to the city wall I walked into the street, where all the trees were in their full spring blooming glory. It was amazing. I climbed the city wall and enjoyed the expanse of the part and the view of the city. It was time to get lunch and say good bye to Lucca. I ate a very delicious lunch, consisting of a warm octopus soup and ravioli with meat sauce at the Osteria Via S. Giorgio, walked back to my hotel to pick up my bags and got a taxi to the train station to go to my next destination - Grotta Giusti Spa at the Montecatini Terme.

     After 40 minutes train ride I arrived to the Montecatini. I had to use my google maps again to determine where to get off the train, since the stops were not being announced at all, so it made for a fun journey. I took a taxi to the spa (there is no public transportation), which I thought was expensive (around 20 Euro) for a relatively short 10 minutes ride. I made it to the spa just in time to enjoy the Grotto before it closed for the day at 5pm. The Grotto is a series of the underground natural caves, with beautiful weirdly shaped stalactites and stalagmites. There are three zones inside, poetically named Paradise, Purgatory and Hell, where the temperature gradually increases from 31C to 34C in Hell with almost 100% humidity and creating a steam bath, which when taken for 40-50 minutes not only releases toxins from your body but also completely melts the stress away. Limbo has a picturesque lake, which maintains a constant temperature of 36C both in winter and summer. I had a great time in the Grotto, it was something very exotic, which I have never done before, even though I had experienced many different spas. After relaxing in the Grotto, I arranged my appointments for the next day for a few spa treatments. I booked a 80-minutes Vitalstone massage and 50-minutes Ubtan Peeling, as well as Diathermy with physiotherapy massage for the following day. I had a nice dinner at the hotel (it was included with my stay) and retired for the night.

Day 8 - Lucca

After my last breakfast in Florence I checked out and took a taxi to the train station to go to Lucca. It is an interesting fact that the regional trains do not announce any stops. So, I was only able to figure out that I was approaching Lucca by using trusted Google maps. Otherwise, I would have missed my stop. In Lucca I took a bus that brought me close to my hotel Palazzo Alexander (again thanks to Google maps). The hotel looked a little old-fashioned, decorated in style of Italian palazzo. They have an old-fashioned huge key that probably weighs 3 pounds – I guess the idea that the guests do not take the key with them when they leave.  After a short rest I went to explore the city. It was raining, so I borrowed a large umbrella from the hotel.  In spite of the rain I enjoyed wandering narrow medieval streets in Lucca – what a wonderful, well preserved old town. There were practically no tourists in the streets and I was able to soak in the genuine atmosphere of this wonderful medieval town. I ran into Pizzeria da Felice, which is a little mom-and-pop hole-in-the-wall place mentioned by Rick Steves. I was a bit peckish, so I popped in and had a slice or yummy pizza with prosciutto as well as slice of a local specialty cecina (a garbanzo-bean crape). After enjoying my quick and yummy lunch, I discovered the most wonderful gelateria called De’ Coltelli, just off Piazza San Michele.  I thought it was even better than our favorite Grom! I sampled the macadamia nuts and pistachio, simply divine!  My quest for the best gelato in the world reached a new high!

          My original plan was to go Pisa after spending some time in Lucca, however I had some troubles finding the train station. Google maps were of no help this time and refused to find it, even though I entered the correct name. I did manage to din the bus stop, from which I could go to Pisa, but the next bus was not for another hour and it was getting late. So, I decided to stay and enjoy Lucca.  I will see Pisa next time we return to lovely Tuscany. I had my dinner in the recommended Osteria Via San Giorgio, where I enjoyed tasty antipasto misto and some tender veal. I had a pleasant walk back to the hotel and was ready to get some rest. 

Day 7 – Florence and Siena

After the whirlwind of museums, churches, palaces and gardens I felt very tired and all “museumed out”. I decided to spend my last day in Florence slow and mellow. I slept in and had a nice long breakfast. After breakfast I visited the Duomo, which was finally open, had some gelato and made my way to St. Croce church, where I intended to visit the famous Firenze Scuola del Cuoio – leather artisans in the Monastery of Santa Croce, which is a workshop as well as a showroom, where they sell their works. Since Florence is renowned for it wonderful leather goods I wanted to bring a little piece of Florence home and was hoping to buy a nice leather purse. The selection of bags didn’t disappoint. I quickly had my heart set on a beautiful brown leather purse – it was a perfect size for me, had enough pockets and could be easily transformed into the backpack. The quality of leather and craftsmanship were outstanding. The prices there are really high, but the quality could not be beat. I also selected a nice leather belt for Boris. They offered a nice 20% discount if I paid in cash, so off I went in search of ATM machine. It took me some time and effort to find it but finally I was back with the cash and enjoyed watching the master engrave my initials on the inside of my new purse and Boris’s initials on the inside of his belt.

I dropped off my purchases at the hotel and headed in the direction of the train station. Before going to Siena, I was planning to see an interesting Mercato Centrale not too far from the train station. I walked through the famous St. Lorenzo street market with hundreds merchants selling leather goods, scarves and souvenirs. Mercato Centrale consists of 2 floors – on the first floor they sell fruits and vegetables, meats, cheeses, pasta, baked goods and many other groceries. The food displays looked fantastic and I enjoyed browsing and taking photos. Second floor is recently remodeled and occupied by multiple very fancy delis, that cook and serve food right there on the spot. Everything looked fantastic and oh so yummy. I decided to have my lunch there but spent quite a lot of time deciding which one to pick. Finally, I settled on a beautiful antipasti plate with artistically arranged tomatoes, eggs, olives and several slices of toasted bread with bruschetta and some other spreads. I also got a plate of steaming gnocchi with pine nuts. Everything was very delicious and I enjoyed my lunch a lot.

Finally, it was time for me to go to Siena. I walked to the nearby train station, where I boarded the bus recommended by Tomaso (turned out that Siena’s train station is far from the city center, so bus is much more convenient) and about 45 minutes later I was in Siena. My plan was to see the exquisite Duomo first, then walk around the city and see Il Campo square.  Siena’s Duomo is breathtakingly beautiful, both interior and exterior. It is probably the most beautiful cathedral I’ve ever seen. I spent about an hour admiring the Duomo, then headed to see the Il Campo. I was also hoping to eat in the Osteria Nonna Gina – when we visited in 2011 we had such an amazing gnocchi there – probably our best meal in Italy. Unfortunately, the Osteria was closed, so I had to contend myself with taking a photo of it and headed to Il Campo. It was a joy to wander around the medieval streets and see locals enjoying their evening passegiata (stroll). At this time of the year there were almost no tourists, so I had a chance to peek at the local life. Il Campo was beautiful and I enjoyed eating my favorite Grom gelato there.

I caught the same bus back to Florence and after an enjoyable dinner at the nearby restaurant Il Porcelino retired for the night.

Day 6 - Florence

     I woke up early eager to start my day. I had an Uffizi gallery tour booked with CityWonders company and was looking forward to it. My tour was scheduled for 1:30pm, so having plenty of time I decided to visit the Duomo. Unfortunately, since it was Sunday the interior of the Duomo was closed for the visitors. Oh, well, not a big problem. I was not too upset, because I knew that I would still have plenty of time to see it later. So, I walked around the Duomo, took in the beautiful exterior and marveled at the magnificent dome engineered by Filippo Brunelleschi. Current facade of the Duomo dates late 19th century. It is designed in neo-gothic style in white, green and red marble. Right next to the Duomo, I enjoyed looking at the Florence Baptistery with its famous bronze doors, gilded with gold designed by Lorenzo Ghiberty, which were referred by Michelanagelo as doors fit to be "the Gates of Paradise".

     I still had a few hours left before my Uffizi tour, so I wanted to explore different neighborhoods. My first stop - gelateria "Perche no", recommended by Tomaso.  Their gelato was yummy but I think that Grom is better. Then, I checked out the famous San Lorenzo leather market, walked past the Medici Cappella and had a quick but delicious lunch (very good salad with ham, eggs and cheese) at Trattoria "I'cche C'eC'e", recommended by Rick Steves. It was time to walk Uffizi to meet my group for the tour. I found the place without any problems just in time. It is surprisingly easy to get oriented in Florence. All the street names are clearly marked and a regular tourist map was sufficient for me (unlike in Rome, where I had to use Google maps extensively).
     
     Uffizi is one of the oldest and greatest museums in Europe and in the whole world. I have really enjoyed visiting it in 2011 and was eager to return. Unfortunately,  I cannot say that I really enjoyed the tour. Even though the tour guide was entertaining and tried to engage the group I guess I was hoping for something a little bit deeper and more interesting than what he presented. Nevertheless, I enjoyed seeing the masterpieces - my favorite ones were "Birth of Venus" and "La Primavera" by Sandro Boticelli, the only painting on canvas completed by Michelangelo "Donni Tondo", beautiful "Madonna and Child with Angel" by Filippo Lippe and "Venus of Urbino" and "Flora" by Titian. I lingered after the 2-hour tour in the museum to revisit my favorites.
     
     After visiting Uffizi, even though I was very tired I didn't want to end my day yet. I walked to see the St. Croce church. Alas, I just missed the last entry at 5pm. Probably for the best, as I my legs were begging me for a break. In the back street by the church I found an entrance to the famous Florentine School of Leather, which I really wanted to explore with some shopping in mind. It is the best place in Florence to shop for leather. Expensive, but the quality of their work is outstanding. I made a plan to return there the next day when they are open. On the way back to the hotel I passed through the Piazza la Signoria in front of Palazzo Vecchio and saw many beautiful statues, including the copy of famous "David" by Michelangelo.
 
      Since I was totally exhausted I decided to skip dinner and enjoyed the happy hour at the hotel with a glass of Chianti and some nibbles. I went to bed around 11 pm hoping to get a good night sleep and recover my energy for tomorrow.