Thursday, March 19, 2015
Day 2 - Rome
I woke up around 5am and could not sleep any more. After breakfast, hotel shuttle took me to Arlanda airport, my flight to Rome was departing at 10:35am. Flights with Air Berlin went well, no issues, however the jet leg finally hit me and I was feeling very sleepy around 2pm. Upon arrival, I decided to take a taxi and was told that the flat rate is 48 Euro. When I was coming our of my gate, some people, who looked like they worked at the airport and had badges started offering me a taxi with a different rate, sit down for 5 minutes and wait for other passenger to share the ride. I ignored them and went outside to the taxi stand where I immediately got on the taxi and 25 minutes later was in Rome. Traffic in Rome is just as hectic as during our last visit. Cars, scooters, bikes, pedestrians weaving in and out and it looks so chaotic that one can't help but ask the question - how do they manage to handle it with such an ease and stay alive. I was a bit tired when I got to the hotel, so I decided to rest a bit. Once I had a little more energy I decided to go for an evening stroll. Hotel Cecil, where I stayed is located in the Northern part of Rome, close to Villa Borghese, Spanish Steps and fountain Trevi. Spanish steps is probably the closest, so I decided to take some steps in that direction. In 5 minutes I was there. I still cannot get used to the fact that Rome is so crowded! I should have been prepared, as when we visited in April 2011 it was a total mayhem. Still I was surprised to see so many people there. However, the crowd was significantly less comparing to our last visit. There is a very nice fountain at the bottom of Spanish Steps called "Sinking Boat" by Bernini (father). I enjoyed looking at it and taking some photos, the place is quite atmospheric in spite of all the tourists. After hanging out there for some time I headed to the fountain Trevi, which is nearby. To my great disappointment it is closed for restoration (not sure for how long). The sculptures are still visible and they made a wooden walk that allows you to get closer to the fountain but I didn't enjoy seeing it like that at all. Since I was quite tired I thought it would be a good idea to get some dinner and call it a night. Not so fast! My restaurant selection process took quite a while. First I turned to Yelp. There was a well recommended restaurant Sophia nearby and I headed there. To my surprise the restaurant was open but quite empty. Later I realized that this is because Italians eat dinner really late and most restaurants open only at 7:30pm - 8pm. But at the time it turned me off and I continued my quest for a perfect first dinner in Rome. I had a "Pocket Rome" book by Rick Steves with me and found that one of the recommended restaurants "Ristorante il Gabriello" is close. After about 10 minutes walk I arrived there. The interior looked inviting but they were all booked and had to turn me down since I didn't have a reservation. It seems to be a quite popular place. They suggested that I come back at 9:45pm but it was too late for me. I was very tired, hungry and a bit disappointed. Time to turn to trusted Yelp again. This time it didn't disappoint. I found a small and pleasant restaurant "Antica Osteria Brunetti" and was very happy to finally sit down. My first dinner in Rome did not disappoint. I had Proscuitto di Buffala and daily special Pappardelle al ragu bianco di cinghale accompanied by the glass of house red wine. The dessert was magical - again daily special (not on the main menu), it was some sort of chocolate cake that tasted divine - not overly sweet, intense chocolate with 2 different textures - very hard top of the cake and soft under. I immensely enjoyed it even though I was full. No space for gelato! After dinner I came back to the hotel. Google Maps prove very useful in Rome, I don't know how I would get oriented without them. Rome is not very pedestrian friendly, side-walks are either narrow or non-existent. It is a medieval city, where people have to live in the 21st century. Great to visit, but I don't think I would want to live here. Back at the hotel I collapsed absolutely exhausted and sleepy. I made a feeble attempt to right my blog but to no avail - I fell asleep while typing!
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