Day 13 - August 31, 2026

Rovinj – Learning the Adriatic Rhythm

Today marked my first full day of truly settling into Rovinj’s slower Mediterranean pace. After the active hiking days in Slovenia, it felt wonderful to devote an entire day simply to enjoying the sea.

The beach at Hotel Eden quickly became one of my favorite places on the trip. The Adriatic here is everything I had hoped for—crystal clear, incredibly clean, and wonderfully warm. At around 26°C (79°F), the water was warm enough to stay in comfortably for long swims while still feeling refreshing.

One thing I’m especially grateful I packed was my water shoes. They turned out to be indispensable on Rovinj’s rocky shoreline, making it easy to enter and leave the water without worrying about slippery rocks or sea urchins.

At one point while swimming I brushed against something soft and gelatinous—probably a harmless jellyfish or comb jelly. Thankfully it didn’t sting, but it definitely reminded me that I’d much rather admire sea creatures from a distance than unexpectedly touch them!

What surprised me most was how comfortable the beach remained throughout the day. Even during what should have been the hottest hours, a pleasant Adriatic breeze kept everything remarkably comfortable. Instead of hiding indoors, I found myself happily lingering under the umbrella, swimming, reading, and simply enjoying being by the sea.

Mediterranean Lunch

Lunch was exactly what I wanted after a long swim.

I chose grilled squid, a perfect light Mediterranean meal that felt fresh, healthy, and satisfying without being heavy.

A Different Kind of Workout

For the first time since leaving home, I thought about strength training.

Rather than forcing myself through a full gym session, I opted for something much simpler: an impromptu workout in my room consisting of three sets of seven Bulgarian split squats on each leg using only my body weight.

It was enough to remind my muscles what strength training feels like without taking away from the vacation. Considering all the hiking, walking, and swimming throughout this trip, I realized I’ve actually remained surprisingly active despite taking a break from my normal lifting routine.

Wellness and Relaxation

Instead of the gym, I spent part of the afternoon enjoying Hotel Eden’s wellness facilities.

I relaxed in the saltwater pool, then spent time simply sitting outside in the shade, enjoying the peaceful atmosphere before returning to the beach for another swim later in the afternoon.

It perfectly matched the slower rhythm that Rovinj seems to encourage.

A Lucky Booking

One of the highlights of the day was securing a reservation for the Catamaran Bikini sunset dolphin cruise on Wednesday evening.

The tour was almost completely sold out for the rest of the week, so I felt genuinely lucky to get one of the last available places. Watching dolphins at sunset from a small catamaran promises to be one of the signature experiences of my stay in Croatia.

Dinner at Eclectus

Dinner turned out to be another excellent recommendation.

At Eclectus, I enjoyed a beautifully prepared meal beginning with an octopus salad, followed by bruschetta topped with homemade cream cheese and house-cured salted salmon. A small glass of local Malvazija paired perfectly with the meal, along with sparkling water.

Everything was fresh, beautifully presented, and delicious.

I briefly considered ordering dessert because the food had been so good, but in the end I realized I simply wasn’t hungry anymore. It felt satisfying to finish the meal content rather than eating just because something looked tempting.

Evening Walk Through Rovinj

After dinner, I wandered back toward Hotel Eden through the charming streets of Rovinj, stopping to browse a few shops along the way.

One thing that surprised me was how lively the town remained. Many of the shops were still open until 11 PM, giving the entire Old Town a wonderfully relaxed evening atmosphere. Rather than closing down early, Rovinj seems to come alive after sunset, encouraging leisurely walks, window shopping, and simply enjoying the ambiance.

---

Favorite moments

• Swimming in the warm, crystal-clear Adriatic.
• Discovering just how valuable the water shoes were.
• Relaxing in the saltwater wellness pool.
• Booking one of the last spots on the sunset dolphin cruise.
• An outstanding seafood dinner at Eclectus.
• Choosing not to order dessert simply because I wasn’t hungry.
• Strolling through Rovinj’s lively evening streets, where shopping continues long after sunset.

Reflection

Today’s greatest luxury wasn’t a particular landmark or attraction—it was having nowhere I absolutely needed to be.

After the structured sightseeing and spectacular hikes of Slovenia, Rovinj invited me to do something different: slow down, linger, swim a little longer, enjoy another glass of wine, browse a few shops, and let the day unfold naturally.

It felt like exactly the right place to be at this stage of the journey.

 

Day 12 - August 30, 2026

From the Julian Alps to the Adriatic

Today marked another transition in my European journey—leaving the mountains of Slovenia behind and heading for the Croatian coast.

My GoOpti shared transfer picked me up at Hotel Bohinj exactly on schedule at 12:45. The journey to Rovinj took just under five hours, arriving around 5:30 PM. Along the way we stopped several times for other passengers, including Ljubljana Airport, Ljubljana itself, and Portorož/Piran. Despite the multiple stops, the drive never felt tedious.

The driver was Croatian but worked for a Slovenian company, and he turned out to be friendly and surprisingly talkative. I enjoyed our conversations and watching the scenery roll by outside the window.

One unexpected pleasure of the drive was recognizing places I had already visited over the past week. It was satisfying to reconnect the different parts of Slovenia in my mind while also discovering new landscapes on the way toward Croatia.

The only downside was that I skipped lunch, so by the time I reached Rovinj I was definitely hungry.

After checking into Hotel Eden, I headed straight into town for my first Croatian dinner.

I chose Maestral Restaurant on the waterfront and couldn’t have asked for a better introduction to Rovinj.

As the sun slowly descended over the Adriatic, I enjoyed an octopus salad followed by beautifully grilled sea bass fillet with vegetables and potatoes. After a day without lunch I happily accepted that this wasn’t the evening to worry about an extra piece of bread.

I paired dinner with a small glass of local house white wine—almost certainly Malvazija—which immediately confirmed why everyone recommends this Istrian variety. Light, fresh and wonderfully enjoyable.

Watching the sun set over the Adriatic while enjoying fresh seafood felt like the perfect welcome to Croatia.

After dinner I continued along the waterfront toward Rovinj’s famous old town.

The atmosphere was completely different from Bohinj.

Instead of peaceful mountain silence, the streets were alive with people strolling, chatting at outdoor cafés, listening to live music and simply enjoying the warm summer evening. There was an unmistakable Mediterranean energy that immediately drew me in.

Along the harbor I noticed several small stands advertising sunset and dolphin boat tours for only €20—something that instantly went onto my list for the coming days.

Naturally, gelato was next.

At L’Amore I ordered a small scoop of mocha, which turned out to be an excellent choice.

From there I wandered uphill through the narrow stone streets of the old town, eventually reaching the Cathedral of St. Euphemia at the highest point.

The cathedral itself was beautiful, but what made the moment memorable was the gentle instrumental music drifting through the square. I never quite identified the instrument, but it perfectly matched the peaceful atmosphere at the top of the hill.

Rather than retracing my steps, I chose a different route back down, discovering more hidden alleyways and corners along the way.

I already know I’ll enjoy exploring Rovinj again in daylight.

Back near the harbor another unexpected gift was waiting.

A remarkably talented guitarist and singer was performing live, mixing his own original songs with familiar English and Italian classics. I found a place to stand and ended up listening for nearly forty minutes without even realizing how much time had passed.

It became one of those simple travel moments that no itinerary could ever predict.

By the time I finally returned to Hotel Eden, I wasn’t quite ready for the evening to end.

I wandered through the hotel grounds in the dark, getting my bearings for the days ahead. I found the pool, located the beach, and immediately fell in love with the tall pine trees stretching almost to the sea.

The mountains of Bohinj may be behind me now, but tonight I felt something equally exciting beginning.

If Bohinj felt like a peaceful retreat into nature, Rovinj already feels like a celebration of Mediterranean life.

 

Day 11 - August 29th, 2026

Lake Bohinj – Rain, a Hidden Beach, and the Perfect Farewell

After yesterday’s incredible Mostnica Gorge hike, today was meant to be my excursion to Ukanc and Savica Waterfall. Instead, Bohinj reminded me that mountain weather makes its own plans.

The morning began with intermittent rain. Rather than giving up on the day, I waited it out before catching the panoramic electric boat to Ukanc around 12:50. The boat itself turned out to be one of the highlights. Because it was electric, it glided almost silently across the lake, allowing me to simply listen to the water and admire the mountains disappearing into low clouds. There were only a handful of passengers on board, making the crossing feel peaceful and intimate.

By the time we reached Ukanc, the rain had become quite heavy. I took shelter under the roof of an open-air restaurant by the pier. Every table was occupied, so I ended up sharing one with a local family. It was one of those small travel moments that make you feel connected rather than inconvenienced.

Lunch was the Komarca salad with mixed greens, boiled egg, ham and cheese, accompanied by not one but two cappuccinos while I watched the rain come and go.

As the shower eased, I briefly considered continuing to Savica Waterfall. I even walked over to the bus stop, hoping to catch the shuttle to the trailhead. But the bus never appeared, the rain returned almost immediately, and after a few minutes I accepted that today simply wasn’t meant to be a waterfall day.

Instead, I boarded the panoramic boat back across the lake.

Back in Ribčev Laz it was still drizzling, so I returned to Hotel Bohinj and settled into one of the downstairs lounges with my Kindle. Coincidentally, the hotel was hosting a wedding. It was unexpectedly enjoyable simply watching the guests arrive and mingle. Everyone looked elegant, and I especially loved the color palette they had chosen—a beautiful muted shade of blue worn by both the men in their suits and the bridesmaids.

After about an hour something changed.

The rain stopped.

The clouds began lifting.

Instead of trying to salvage the original plan, I decided to simply walk along the southern side of the lake.

Following the footpath beside the road, I eventually noticed a tiny trail disappearing through the bushes. On impulse, I followed it.

Suddenly I emerged onto a small natural beach.

It felt completely hidden.

No crowds.

No organized swimming area.

Just crystal-clear water, mountains rising on every side, and complete tranquility.

Without hesitation I went swimming.

It became one of the most magical moments of the entire Slovenia trip.

Floating in the lake, surrounded by untouched nature, with hardly another person nearby, I realized that sometimes the experiences we remember most are the ones we never planned. I stayed there until nearly 6:30 PM, reluctant to leave what felt like my own private corner of Bohinj.

Back at the hotel I had a dinner reservation at Hotel Bohinj’s restaurant.

It turned out to be a wonderful farewell meal.

I started with sparkling water before ordering the Lamb Bajadera—slow-roasted and pressed lamb served with confit leek, smoked carrot and a rich lamb reduction. The flavors were refined yet comforting.

Dessert was even more memorable: the chef’s Interpretation of Gibanica. It featured Bohinj curd cheese ice cream, apple butter, walnut praline, poppy crumble, delicate crispy pulled dough and caramelized walnuts. It was unlike any version of gibanica I had ever imagined—creative, surprisingly light, beautifully balanced and absolutely delicious.

Looking back, today taught me an unexpected lesson.

Sometimes the best travel days are not the ones where everything goes according to plan.

Sometimes they begin with disappointment, washed-out plans and heavy rain.

And then, quietly, almost accidentally, they become unforgettable.

 

Day 10 - August 28, 2026

Bohinj – Mostnica Gorge, Voje Valley & Hotel Bohinj Spa

When I woke up this morning, my plans changed completely.

The low clouds I had been seeing over Bohinj turned out not to be clouds at all but Saharan dust hanging over the mountains. After checking the live webcam from Vogel with the hotel receptionist, it was obvious that the views would be disappointing, so instead of forcing the original plan, I pivoted to the Mostnica Gorge (Korita Mostnice) hike.

That spontaneous decision turned into one of the very best days of the trip.

Through the Mostnica Gorge

The hike began just a short walk from Hotel Bohinj, leading first through the village of Stara Fužina before entering the gorge.

From the very beginning it felt completely different from Vintgar.

Where Vintgar is spectacular to admire from above, Mostnica invites you into the landscape. You can walk right beside the river, climb down onto smooth rocks, linger at pools of impossibly clear water, and simply enjoy being close to it.

The colors were unforgettable.

The water shifted constantly between emerald green, deep turquoise and crystal clear blue. The limestone had been sculpted over thousands of years into smooth bowls, narrow channels and fascinating curves by the rushing water. Every turn seemed even prettier than the last.

Unlike many famous gorges, this one never felt crowded or rushed. It encouraged stopping, exploring and simply appreciating the sound of the river.

It immediately became obvious why this hike felt so special.

It wasn’t just beautiful.

It was immersive.

Through Voje Valley

After leaving the gorge, the trail continued into the peaceful Voje Valley (Voje).

Wide alpine meadows opened beneath the surrounding mountains, creating an entirely different atmosphere from the dramatic gorge below.

At the end of the valley sits Planinska koča na Vojah, the mountain hut overlooking the meadows.

Lunch there was simple mountain food but absolutely delicious, made even better by sitting outside with that incredible alpine view.

It was one of those meals that perfectly matches the setting around it.

The Walk Home

Instead of retracing the same route, I returned through the valley and back toward Stara Fužina, which gave the afternoon an entirely different feeling.

The light had softened beautifully.

Cows grazed peacefully on the pastures.

Traditional Slovenian farmhouses, barns, flower boxes and gardens made the village feel wonderfully authentic.

There was something incredibly calming about walking through a place where everyday village life continues much as it always has.

It wasn’t a dramatic ending to the hike.

It was a peaceful one.

And somehow that made it even more memorable.

By the end of the day I had covered nearly 11 miles, walked almost 30,000 steps, and climbed the equivalent of 29 flights of stairs.

Without hesitation, Mostnica Gorge earns a place among my Top 10 favorite hikes.

Practical Notes

One practical lesson for future travelers: bring cash.

Both the entrance fee for Mostnica Gorge and the mountain hut accepted cash only. I was lucky to have my last €25 with me—it was just enough.

Casual Comfort Food

After such a long hiking day, dinner didn’t need to be fancy.

I ate at Karakter Bar, just outside Hotel Bohinj.

A mixed salad topped with crispy fried chicken and another wonderfully refreshing Radler was exactly what I wanted.

I found myself wishing they served a smaller bottle. The standard 0.5-liter bottle is perfect when sharing with Boris, but traveling solo meant finishing the whole thing myself. Still, it’s become one of my favorite drinks of this trip, and wasting any of it felt almost impossible.

Sometimes the most satisfying dinners are the simplest ones.

An Evening of Recovery

At 8:00 PM I returned to the hotel’s wellness center for another massage.

This time I had a 60-minute treatment:

• 30 minutes focused on my back, neck and shoulders.
• 30 minutes devoted to my face and scalp.

The therapist was excellent again, and today’s massage was gentler than yesterday’s—deeply relaxing after such an active day.

Afterward I stayed in the spa for a while, enjoying the warm hydrotherapy pool before finishing with another session in the Finnish sauna.

This time I put my head completely under the cold shower afterward, and surprisingly it made the cold plunge feel much more manageable.

It was the perfect way to end a day spent almost entirely outdoors.

Today’s Highlights

• Mostnica Gorge easily joins my personal Top 10 hikes.
• The extraordinary emerald and turquoise colors of the river.
• Walking through peaceful Voje Valley.
• Lunch with mountain views at Planinska koča na Vojah.
• Returning through beautiful Stara Fužina in the soft evening light.
• Seeing cows grazing peacefully in alpine meadows.
• A wonderfully relaxing massage followed by the spa and sauna.

 

Day 9 - August 27, 2026

From Bled’s Emerald Gorge to Bohinj’s Peaceful Embrace

Thursday, August 27, 2026

This was one of those days that perfectly balanced adventure and restoration.

It began with one of the most spectacular natural places I’ve ever visited and ended with one of the most relaxing evenings of the trip.

Vintgar Gorge – Slovenia’s Hidden Masterpiece

The alarm rang early because my entry to Vintgar Gorge was scheduled for 8:03 AM. I decided to splurge on a €20 taxifrom Hotel Park, and it turned out to be one of the best decisions of the day.

Arriving that early meant almost no crowds. Soft morning light filtered through the trees and illuminated the emerald-green Radovna River below. Instead of hundreds of tourists, all I could hear was rushing water and birds.

And then the gorge simply took my breath away.

I’ve been fortunate to visit some incredible places—gorges in Iceland and the dramatic landscapes around Lake Louise in Canada—but Vintgar absolutely belongs in that company. The crystal-clear turquoise water, wooden boardwalks suspended above the river, waterfalls, rapids, and towering limestone cliffs create a landscape that feels almost unreal.

It wasn’t just beautiful.

It was mesmerizing.

Walking through the gorge felt less like sightseeing and more like being immersed inside a living work of art created by water over thousands of years.

Without question, Vintgar Gorge has become one of the greatest natural highlights of this entire Europe trip.

An Unexpected Hike

One surprise came at the end of the gorge.

I had expected a short return route, but instead everyone continues along the St. Katarina trail before reaching the shuttle stop.

The return hike took about 50 minutes.

I hadn’t packed water or sunscreen because I wasn’t expecting the additional walk, but thankfully the weather was kind and everything worked out perfectly. The trail itself was peaceful and scenic, making the unexpected detour another pleasant part of the morning.

From there I took the shuttle back to Parking Lot P1, caught the bus into central Bled, returned to Hotel Park, checked out and stored my luggage.

One Last Lunch in Bled

Before leaving Bled I returned to a place that had already become one of my favorites—Kavarna Park.

Lunch was a delicious Caesar salad with grilled chicken, crispy bacon, Parmesan and croutons.

But the real reason I returned?

One more slice of the famous Bled cream cake.

And, naturally…

another cappuccino.

Sitting outside overlooking the lake one last time felt like the perfect farewell to Bled.

Yesterday had been all about discovering the lake.

Today was about appreciating it.

Arriving in Bohinj

Rather than squeezing in one final walk around Lake Bled, I decided to head to Bohinj earlier.

The difference between the two places was immediately noticeable.

Bled is elegant, polished and iconic.

Bohinj feels quieter, slower and much closer to nature.

Within minutes I already sensed this would be a very different experience.

An Evening of Wellness

One of the things I had been looking forward to most was trying the wellness facilities at Hotel Bohinj, and they did not disappoint.

My 60-minute sports massage with Bojana was excellent—one of the best massages I’ve had in quite a while. She found exactly the right balance between therapeutic pressure and relaxation, leaving me feeling noticeably looser after yesterday’s and today’s walking.

After the massage I moved into the wellness area.

Access is organized through reserved time slots, which keeps the spa pleasantly uncrowded.

I spent about an hour and a half moving between the facilities:

• a wonderfully warm Turkish steam bath
• a properly hot Finnish sauna, where I comfortably stayed through an entire sand-timer cycle
• the whirlpool
• a refreshing cold shower
• and finally the relaxation room with its beautiful illuminated salt wall.

Everything felt spotless, modern and thoughtfully designed.

It wasn’t a huge spa.

It was simply done very well.

Dinner Under the Stars

Dinner was at the hotel’s restaurant, where I had reserved a table for 8:30 PM.

I chose to sit outside.

A live musician was performing somewhere in front of the hotel. I never actually saw the singer, but the music floated across the terrace throughout dinner. Hearing Elton John classics mixed with other familiar songs created exactly the kind of relaxed atmosphere that encourages lingering over a meal.

I started with one of the most creatively named soups I’ve ever ordered:

Porcini “Cappuccino.”

A silky porcini mushroom soup served in the style of a cappuccino, topped with local cheese and buckwheat—it was both playful and genuinely delicious.

For my main course I chose the local trout, beautifully prepared and served with seasonal vegetables, lentils and a delicate sparkling wine foam.

Both dishes reflected the hotel’s emphasis on local ingredients without feeling overly complicated.

It was exactly the meal I wanted after such an active day.

Looking Back

Today felt like a transition.

Yesterday was about postcard-perfect Lake Bled.

Today reminded me why I travel.

Standing above emerald water in Vintgar Gorge.

Enjoying one last cream cake overlooking the lake.

A wonderful massage.

The warmth of the sauna.

Live music drifting through the evening air while enjoying fresh Slovenian trout.

None of those moments were rushed.

They were simply experienced.

Sometimes those become the memories that stay with us the longest.

Today’s rating: ★★★★★ (5/5)

Highlights of the day:

• Vintgar Gorge exceeded every expectation and became one of the greatest natural experiences of the trip.
• Perfect early morning visit with beautiful light and almost no crowds.
• One final lakeside lunch—and another unforgettable Bled cream cake.
• Outstanding sports massage by Bojana.
• Excellent wellness facilities at Hotel Bohinj.
• A relaxing dinner accompanied by live music under the Bohinj evening sky.

 

Day 8 - August 26, 2026

Bled – “Touristy? Yes. Worth it? Absolutely.”

This morning I said goodbye to Ljubljana and headed for Bled. A quick taxi ride from Hotel Heritage to the bus station cost just €6, and I arrived around 11:00 AM. There was already a surprisingly long line for the 11:15 bus, and for a moment I thought I might have to wait for the next one. Somehow I ended up with the very last available seat. Ticket: €7. A lucky start to the day.

As the bus wound toward the Julian Alps, I started getting excited. I had wondered whether Bled might be one of those places that looks better in photographs than in real life.

It wasn’t.

First Impression

The moment I saw the lake, I understood why people come from all over the world.

The turquoise water.
The tiny island in the middle.
The medieval castle perched dramatically on a cliff.
The mountains framing everything in the distance.

Yes, it is touristy.

Touristy? Yes. Worth it? Absolutely.

Some places earn their popularity, and Bled is one of them.

Lunch at Kavarna Park

After arriving I had lunch at Kavarna Park, sitting on the terrace overlooking the lake.

I ordered a salmon poke bowl, which was fresh and satisfying, but honestly the real star was the setting. Watching elegant swans glide silently across the lake while looking toward the castle made it feel like lunch inside a postcard.

Of course I couldn’t leave without trying the famous Bled cream cake.

One slice, accompanied by a cappuccino, was exactly the right decision. The cream cake absolutely lived up to its reputation.

Across the Lake

One of my favorite experiences was taking the traditional pletna boat across to Bled Island.

The slow ride across the water felt wonderfully peaceful. Standing on the island, climbing the famous steps to the church, ringing the wishing bell, and looking back toward the castle gave me the classic Bled experience I had imagined before arriving.

Swimming in Lake Bled

If I had to choose the highlight of the day…

It might actually be the swim.

The water was beautifully clear and refreshing after a warm afternoon, and floating while looking across at the island and castle is one of those travel moments that photographs simply cannot capture.

It was peaceful, invigorating, and surprisingly emotional. This is exactly why staying overnight in Bled was the right decision instead of rushing through on a day trip.

Dinner

For dinner I chose Grajska Plaža, conveniently located just above the swimming area where I had been enjoying the lake.

I had a table overlooking the water and ordered:

• local trout fillet
• traditional potato salad
• yogurt sauce
• a radler
• cappuccino to finish

The setting was lovely, but the meal itself was simply okay. Perfectly enjoyable, though nothing memorable, and a bit more casual than I had hoped. Next time I’d probably choose a different restaurant while keeping the same spectacular lake view.

A Small Surprise

Throughout the afternoon I kept noticing colorful wings floating silently above the lake.

At first I wondered if they were parasailers, but they were actually paragliders, launching from the surrounding mountains and soaring over Bled. Watching them drift effortlessly above the castle made me think that perhaps one day I’ll come back and try it myself.

Not today.

Today belonged to the lake.

---

Moments I’ll Remember

• Getting the last seat on the 11:15 bus.
• My first view of Lake Bled.
• Watching swans glide across the water during lunch.
• Enjoying the famous cream cake with cappuccino.
• The peaceful pletna ride to the island.
• Ringing the wishing bell.
• Swimming in Lake Bled with the castle and island in view.
• Seeing paragliders floating silently overhead.
• Realizing that sometimes famous places really do deserve their reputation.

 

Day 7  – August 25, 2026

Piran, Škocjan Caves & Final Evening in Ljubljana

Today reminded me how much the right guide can transform an experience.

I joined a small group tour to the Slovenian coast and Škocjan Caves led by Nina, who was simply outstanding. She was engaging, knowledgeable, and passionate about her country, sharing stories throughout the day that brought each place we visited to life. Compared with the Postojna Cave and Predjama Castle tour I took a few days ago from Trieste, today’s experience was in a completely different league. That earlier excursion did exactly what it promised—it got us to two extraordinary places—but it often felt like transportation with commentary. Nina made today’s journey feel like discovering Slovenia through the eyes of someone who truly loved it.

One of my favorite moments came at a viewpoint near old castle ruins overlooking the Adriatic. From there I could see Trieste stretching out on one side and Slovenia on the other. Nina pointed out the towns and landmarks visible in the distance and shared the story of nearby caves that, according to tradition, sheltered a twelve-year-old Christian boy during Roman times. Standing there with that panoramic view while hearing the history made the stop especially memorable.

Today’s visit to Škocjan Caves also gave me a fascinating comparison with Postojna.

Slovenia’s famous Karst landscape is built from porous limestone that has slowly dissolved over millions of years as rainwater seeped through cracks in the rock. Little by little, underground rivers carved enormous chambers, tunnels, sinkholes, and canyons, creating one of the world’s most remarkable cave systems.

The first section of Škocjan—the Silent Cave—was beautiful, but if I’m honest, I found Postojna more impressive. Its immense chambers, dramatic formations, and unforgettable underground train ride still make it one of the most spectacular caves I’ve ever seen.

Then everything changed.

We entered the Murmuring Cave, and suddenly I understood why Škocjan is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Standing on narrow walkways suspended high above a gigantic underground canyon while the Reka River thundered far below was unlike anything I had ever experienced. It didn’t feel like walking through a cave anymore—it felt like standing inside the Earth itself. The scale was almost impossible to comprehend, and the roaring river gave the entire space an atmosphere that was both humbling and awe-inspiring. Rather than trying to decide which cave was “better,” I came away feeling that they each offered something completely different. Postojna amazed me with its beauty and incredible formations, while Škocjan overwhelmed me with its raw power and geological grandeur.

When we arrived in Piran, Nina suggested climbing the medieval city walls. The entrance fee was only €4 and it was absolutely worth it. The views over the terracotta rooftops, narrow streets, and the sparkling Adriatic were spectacular.

Lunch was enjoyable overall. I really liked the local wine, and the sauce served with the meal was delicious. The only downside was realizing that the scampi were served in their shells—I had forgotten that and remembered why I don’t particularly enjoy peeling shellfish at the table.

While we were eating, the weather transformed dramatically. Heavy rain arrived, followed by thunder and lightning, turning into one of the strongest downpours I’ve experienced on this trip. The storm continued throughout the afternoon, through our pickup time, and for most of the drive back to Ljubljana, making it impossible to explore Piran any further.

Back at the hotel, I spent some time working with ChatGPT on our upstairs remodel. Unfortunately, despite nearly an hour of trying different prompts, we still couldn’t generate a realistic visualization comparing the television placement options. It was a reminder that AI still has its limitations.

For my final dinner in Ljubljana, I chose Zlata Ladjica, located just steps from my hotel. The restaurant was surprisingly quiet, perhaps because it was a Tuesday evening and it sits at the higher end of Ljubljana’s dining scene. Instead of feeling awkward, the peaceful atmosphere made the attentive service feel even more personal.

The waiter carefully explained every dish, helped me choose a lovely glass of Riesling, and created a warm, welcoming atmosphere.

Before dinner, I was served an excellent amuse-bouche of mushroom pâté along with homemade butter and locally baked bread. Both were outstanding.

I chose a tomato appetizer followed by pork cheeks as my main course. The presentation was elegant and both dishes were beautifully prepared—refined without feeling pretentious.

After dinner I skipped dessert and took one last evening walk along the Ljubljanica River.

Even on a Tuesday night, the city was alive. It was quieter than Sunday but still full of people lingering in cafés, enjoying dinner, talking with friends, and soaking up the atmosphere. On the main square, the same café hosted live music again, this time with a different guitarist performing country songs that fit the relaxed evening perfectly.

Eventually I found myself back at Vigo for one final gelato. This time I chose two flavors: Vigo—mascarpone with chocolate and hazelnuts—and the seasonal Yogurt with Mango and Cardamom. Both were excellent, though I still think Cacao remains my favorite gelato in Slovenia.

As I walked back to the hotel, I realized my first impression of Ljubljana had been exactly right. I fell in love with this city from the very first day. Its graceful riverside setting, café culture, elegant architecture, and relaxed rhythm made me feel at home almost immediately. Tonight’s final walk simply confirmed those feelings. Leaving tomorrow is a little bittersweet, but I’m also excited to trade the city streets for the lakes and mountains of Bled and Bohinj—the next chapter of this Slovenian adventure.

 

Day 6 - August 24, 2026 

Ljubljana – Living the City

Yesterday Ljubljana made an unforgettable first impression.

Today I stopped trying to “see” it.

Instead, I wandered through markets, lingered over coffee, chatted with artisans, floated quietly down the Ljubljanica, explored the castle, discovered more Slovenian food, and simply enjoyed spending the day here.

Somewhere along the way, Ljubljana stopped feeling like a destination and started feeling like a place I could imagine calling home—for a little while.

---

Breakfast at Hotel Heritage turned out to be excellent and gave me a relaxed start to the day before heading to the Central Market.

The market was everything I had hoped it would be.

Spreading through both indoor and outdoor spaces, it was full of beautiful produce, artisan crafts, clothing, handmade jewelry and local Slovenian products. It felt authentic—like a place locals genuinely use rather than something created just for tourists.

I also found one of the specialty coffee carts and enjoyed a wonderful flat white while wandering through the stalls.

One of my missions for the morning was to find the artisan who had made my silver ring yesterday.

Success.

I bought another handcrafted silver ring made from deep purple amaranth wood as a birthday gift for a friend, along with two handmade wood-and-resin pendants that immediately reminded me why I enjoy buying from local artisans so much.

I spent quite a while admiring FREYWILLE jewelry as well. The Klimt collection was beautiful, but I decided this wasn’t the right purchase for this trip. Sometimes appreciating beautiful craftsmanship without bringing it home is exactly enough.

One of the highlights of the afternoon was taking the silent electric boat along the Ljubljanica.

Seeing Ljubljana from the river gave me an entirely different perspective. The bridges, cafés, musicians and people strolling along the embankments somehow looked even more charming from the water.

Lunch at Julija was another wonderful discovery.

The slow-cooked veal cheek with truffle purée and vegetables was beautifully prepared and one of my favorite lunches so far on this trip.

Later I rode the funicular to Ljubljana Castle.

The panoramic views from the Viewing Tower were spectacular, and I enjoyed the Virtual Castle presentation, wandering through the courtyards and spending a few surprisingly delightful minutes in the Puppet Museum. Rather than trying to read every historical exhibit, I simply enjoyed the atmosphere and the views over the city.

Dinner before the evening performance was at Marley & Me, where I finally tried one of Slovenia’s traditional specialties—Idrija žlikrofi served with bacon and leek cream sauce.

Absolutely delicious.

Paired with a refreshing Radler, it became another memorable Slovenian meal.

The evening ended with Romeo & Juliet.

The dancers were tremendously talented, the orchestra sounded beautiful and I appreciated the interesting interpretation of the ballet.

At the same time, I learned something about myself.

As much as I admire ballet, I don’t think it’s my favorite performing art. I found myself getting sleepy during the performance and realized that while I’m very glad I experienced it, I’ll probably save future ballet evenings for productions that are truly exceptional—perhaps an Eifman Ballet one day.

Looking back, today wasn’t really about monuments or museums.

It was about conversations with artisans.

Wonderful coffee.

The quiet rhythm of the river.

Traditional Slovenian food.

Browsing independent shops.

Watching everyday life unfold from bridges and cafés.

Today Ljubljana showed me that sometimes the best way to discover a city isn’t by trying to see everything.

It’s by giving yourself enough time to simply live there for a day.

And somewhere between the market, the river and the castle, I caught myself wondering what it would be like if Boris and I came back one day—not for a vacation, but to spend a month or two simply calling Ljubljana home.

That may be the greatest compliment I can give a city.

 

Day 5 – August 23, 2026

Goodbye Trieste… and I Think I Fell in Love with Ljubljana ❤️🇸🇮

Today turned into one of those travel days that surprises you.

A less-than-perfect farewell breakfast

My final morning in Trieste started with what was probably the only disappointing meal I’ve had there. I picked a café that looked promising, but made the mistake of sitting outside, where people at the neighboring table smoked almost continuously. Even worse, the glass they brought for my water wasn’t clean, which immediately made the whole experience feel unpleasant.

I ordered a turkey focaccia sandwich that didn’t resemble its description. The bread wasn’t worth eating, so I mostly ate the turkey and skipped the extra carbs that weren’t bringing me any joy.

Fortunately, I knew exactly how to rescue the morning.

I walked over to Pagna Bakery, bought an almond croissant and a cappuccino, found a quiet little street, opened my Kindle, and suddenly everything felt right again. Sometimes the second choice ends up becoming the memorable one.

One last taste of Trieste

Before leaving for Slovenia, I had lunch at L’Antiquario, and it was a lovely way to say goodbye to the city.

I ordered tuna tataki with avocado and tomatoes—fresh, light and beautifully prepared.

Dessert was unforgettable.

The tiramisu arrived disguised as a flower pot, looking so convincingly like a potted plant that for a moment it hardly seemed edible. Such a playful presentation made me smile before I even took the first bite.

Hello, Ljubljana

I honestly didn’t expect this.

Within just a few hours I realized…

I think I fell in love with Ljubljana.

Sometimes a city slowly grows on you.

Ljubljana didn’t wait.

Almost immediately it felt warm, welcoming and comfortable.

The people have been unbelievably kind.

The receptionist at Hotel Heritage even managed to find mosquito spray for me after I mentioned I needed some.

Every café, every shop and every interaction has felt genuinely friendly.

There is something incredibly human about this city.

A perfect riverside pause

This evening I stopped at Cacao, ordered Earl Grey tea and two scoops of gelato:

• Cheesecake Pistachio with Raspberry
• Yogurt Mango

Both were absolutely outstanding.

The service impressed me just as much as the gelato.

The waitress patiently helped me choose from many flavors, everything arrived in under three minutes, and the tea was served beautifully with milk and honey.

I ended up sitting there for quite a while, simply watching people walk along the river.

I wasn’t planning on eating dessert before dinner…

…but I have absolutely no regrets.

An evening that made me forget dinner

By the time I left Cacao it had become dark.

I slowly wandered along the Ljubljanica River toward Dragon Bridge, stopping every few minutes to photograph another reflection, another bridge, another view.

The city seemed completely alive.

Families strolling.

Couples walking hand in hand.

Locals meeting friends.

Tourists enjoying the evening.

Live music drifting through the streets.

Restaurants overflowing onto the riverbanks.

Long lines at almost every gelato shop.

Apparently, gelato is serious business in Ljubljana.

Ironically, I never once felt tempted by gelato in Trieste.

Here…

I suddenly want to try every single place.

One unexpected highlight?

Dogs.

So many dogs.

Including several Labradoodles and adorable English Cocker Spaniels—two of my favorite breeds.

Small discoveries

Crossing back on the opposite side of the river, I found the large Central Market.

Most of it had already closed for the evening, but I could immediately imagine how lively it must become during the day.

Tomorrow’s plan.

I also wandered into City Hall, which was surprisingly still open.

Inside were exhibitions—including one showing Ljubljana’s vision for the city through 2045, with ambitious plans for more cycling infrastructure, greener public spaces, and continued sustainable development.

Even though everything was written in Slovenian, I found myself recognizing words and understanding more than I expected.

Maybe that’s part of why this place already feels strangely familiar.

Another unexpected surprise…

A jewelry store I’d searched for in Paris earlier this year—only to find it closed—was sitting right here in Ljubljana.

I’m not planning to buy anything this trip…

…but I’ll definitely enjoy browsing tomorrow.

A quiet ending

Before returning to the hotel, I stepped into Ljubljana Cathedral, where an evening service was underway.

For a few peaceful minutes I listened to beautiful organ music echo through the church.

Outside, a duo was performing live nearby—Slovenian songs mixed with English country music.

I stayed for about ten minutes, simply listening.

Eventually I realized something funny.

I wasn’t hungry anymore.

I had become so absorbed by wandering through Ljubljana that I completely forgot about dinner.

Instead, I walked nearly 11,000 steps, soaking in every moment of my first evening.

Final thoughts

People often ask what makes you fall in love with a place.

Sometimes it’s famous landmarks.

Sometimes it’s incredible food.

Sometimes it’s spectacular scenery.

But sometimes…

it’s much smaller than that.

It’s the kindness of strangers.

A hotel host who finds bug spray.

A waitress who happily helps you choose gelato.

Beautiful lights reflected on a quiet river.

Dogs walking beside happy families.

Music drifting through old streets.

A language that somehow feels familiar.

Tonight I realized something.

I wasn’t trying to see Ljubljana anymore.

I was simply enjoying being there.

And I already can’t wait for tomorrow.

 

Europe 2026 – Day 4: Postojna Cave & Predjama Castle (August 22)

The day started with a familiar routine: breakfast at Caffè degli Specchi. I repeated yesterday’s French breakfast because it was convenient—the tour departure was just around the corner at the Savoia Excelsior Palace Hotel for a 9:00 AM pickup.

Our group was small, only eight people, mostly Spanish-speaking. The driver/guide was Slovenian (I think his name was Jan/Yan). He shared bits of Slovenian history during the drive, but without a microphone it was difficult to hear from the back of the van. Overall, the excursion felt more like transportation between sites than a fully guided tour.

The weather changed dramatically as soon as we crossed into Slovenia. The sunny skies of Trieste disappeared and heavy rain moved in. At Predjama Castle the downpour was at its peak—I was completely soaked within two minutes of walking from the parking area to the entrance.

The rain was worth it.

Predjama Castle is unlike any castle I’ve visited before. Built directly into the mouth of a cliff, it feels almost unreal. The audio guide was informative, although a few of the buttons were temperamental. We had about fifty minutes before leaving for the cave, which felt like exactly the right amount of time.

Postojna Cave was a completely different experience. The entrance area was unbelievably crowded—almost like Disneyland. That level of tourism took away some of the magic, and once again the assigned guide was difficult to hear and understand.

But then the cave itself completely changed my opinion.

It felt like stepping into another world—an enormous underground landscape of impossible rock formations, giant chambers, and an almost alien environment. The train ride deep into the cave was unique and became one of the highlights of the day. Despite the crowds and organizational annoyances, I am very glad I saw it. Some places are simply impressive enough that they overcome the inconveniences.

The return trip was unexpectedly frustrating. We spent more than an hour crawling through traffic at the Italy-Slovenia border. Oddly, nobody checked passports or documents; cars simply moved forward at a painfully slow pace for reasons none of us understood. We finally arrived back in Trieste around 4:00 PM.

Hungry after the long day, I returned once again to Caffè degli Specchi. Lunch consisted of prosciutto with burrata, a fried zucchini flower, and their signature Specchi coffee topped with Chantilly cream and whipped cream. It was incredibly rich and absolutely delicious. The only downside was the persistent pigeons competing for attention while sitting outside in Piazza Unità.

Back at Hotel Maria Cristina, I rested before tomorrow’s departure. Reception was especially helpful—they arranged a later checkout, offered to store my luggage, and even froze the ice pack for my tirzepatide medical cooler.

Dinner was at Bianconspino, conveniently located across from the hotel. The restaurant had a beautiful interior and exceptionally warm, friendly service. I enjoyed a glass of Schioppettino La Viarte Riserva, porcini tartare, Black Angus tagliata, and green tea. The meal was good and satisfying, although not particularly memorable for the €70 price. One useful reminder for future travel: the payment terminal initially attempted to charge me in U.S. dollars ($85) instead of euros. I asked them to cancel it and rerun the transaction in euros—a small but worthwhile save.

After dinner, I finished the evening with a peaceful walk through Trieste before returning to the hotel.

Best Moment

Standing inside Postojna Cave. Despite the crowds, it truly felt like entering another planet.

Biggest Surprise

How dramatically the weather changed after crossing into Slovenia—and how incredibly touristy Postojna Cave has become.

Blog Notes for Boris

• Predjama Castle needs about 45–60 minutes.
• The cave itself is absolutely worth visiting despite Disneyland-level crowds.
• The train ride is one of the most unique parts of the experience.
• Tour quality depends more on transportation than guiding.
• Expect possible delays returning through the Slovenia–Italy border.

 

Day 3 — Falling in Love with Trieste

Sometimes the best travel days aren’t the ones filled with famous landmarks.

They’re the days when a city quietly stops feeling like a destination and starts feeling like somewhere you could imagine living.

That happened to me today.

I started the morning at Caffè degli Specchi, one of Trieste’s historic cafés overlooking Piazza Unità d’Italia. Sitting outside in the cool morning air with a cappuccino, sparkling water, and the surprisingly generous French breakfast special—egg, fresh salad and a warm ham-and-cheese panini—I watched one of Europe’s most beautiful squares slowly come alive.

The entire breakfast cost only €13, which somehow made the experience even sweeter.

After yesterday’s heat, the weather was perfect for walking.

Instead of chasing attractions, I simply wandered.

Through Piazza Cavana.

Past the Arco di Riccardo.

Up San Giusto Hill to the cathedral and castle.

Through the park.

Down toward the Roman Theatre.

No rush.

No checklist.

Just enjoying Trieste.

Lunch at Magna Bistrò turned out to be another wonderful surprise. A perfectly cooked steak with grilled vegetables and sparkling water for only €28.50—delicious, beautifully balanced, and exactly the right portion after a long morning walk.

Then came what I thought would be the biggest disappointment of the day.

I arrived at Madreperla, where I had made and confirmed a reservation earlier that morning, only to be told they had cancelled it because the restaurant was full. There was little explanation and even less apology.

For a moment I thought the evening had been ruined.

Instead, it became one of my favorite nights of the trip.

Just around the corner I discovered Skaramanzia, a small Greek restaurant with exceptional hospitality. My waiter brought several white wines for me to taste before helping me choose one from Campania that paired beautifully with slow-cooked lamb and vegetable caponata. Dessert was a delicate tiramisu cream that ended the evening perfectly.

Sometimes the backup plan becomes the memory.

In between meals I accidentally spent much of the afternoon building a little European wardrobe. After trying on dozens of pieces, I came home with several wonderful basics—but the clear winner was a pair of beautifully made patchwork linen pants. They somehow worked with nearly every top I owned, and back at the hotel I found myself happily creating outfit after outfit instead of worrying about packing.

By the end of the day I had walked nearly 17,000 steps, climbed 25 flights of stairs, and, surprisingly, didn’t feel tired at all.

The jet lag seems to have disappeared.

More importantly, something else happened.

Yesterday I admired Trieste.

Today I started falling in love with it.

Maybe it was the cooler weather.

Maybe it was finally settling into the rhythm of travel.

Or maybe Trieste simply reveals itself slowly.

It’s compact without feeling small.

Elegant without being pretentious.

Full of beautiful cafés, incredible coffee, wonderful little shops, and streets that invite you to wander without any particular destination.

For the first time since arriving, I caught myself thinking:

I’m actually sad that I’ll be leaving soon.

Day 2 – Miramare, Heat and a Quiet Trieste Evening

I woke up feeling surprisingly good after my first night in Trieste and was eager to start the day. Breakfast was at Brunch Republic, about a pleasant 15-minute walk from my hotel. I arrived around 9:15 AM and, although the place was clearly popular and busy, I had no trouble getting a table.

I ordered the Salmon Dance and an iced Coconut Cream Matcha. Both were absolutely delicious and beautifully presented. It was one of those breakfasts that feels a little indulgent but still fresh and light enough for a sightseeing day. I also noticed that practically everyone around me seemed to be ordering the Protein Pancakes, so apparently that is the thing to get here. Maybe next time!

From Brunch Republic, it was only about a two-minute walk to the stop for bus #6 to Miramare. I waited maybe five minutes. The bus was crowded, but I managed to get a seat and paid easily with my phone. From the bus stop near Miramare, the walk to the castle took about 15 minutes.

I decided to start with the gardens before going inside the castle. That turned out to be the right choice. The grounds are very pleasant, with beautiful views of the Adriatic and a nice mixture of formal gardens and more natural parkland. The lower formal areas had statues, bright flowers in bloom and manicured paths, while the upper park felt greener, quieter and more natural. On such a hot and muggy day, the shaded paths were especially welcome.

I spent about an hour wandering mostly through the formal gardens, stopping often to admire the sea views. Toward the end of the gardens I came across a small café and decided to take a break. I ordered a cappuccino and a bottle of water. The cappuccino was exceptionally good — one of those small unexpected pleasures that becomes a memorable part of the day.

Afterward I walked down toward the pier to see the sphinx before heading inside the castle.

There was a short line to enter, maybe 10–15 minutes, but it moved quickly. Inside there were plenty of visitors, but it never felt uncomfortably crowded.

The castle itself was interesting. I learned more about Archduke Maximilian of Austria and his wife Charlotte, and it was fascinating to see their richly furnished rooms. I especially liked the ceilings with all the beautiful wooden detailing. The rooms are elegant and very stately, and the whole place gives a good sense of the life they created here overlooking the Adriatic.

One of the more interesting parts for me was the contrast between Maximilian and Charlotte’s original 19th-century interiors and the more modern rooms created in the 1930s for Duke Amedeo of Savoy-Aosta and Princess Anne d’Orléans. Those later apartments felt noticeably different and made the castle more interesting because you could see two completely different periods layered into the same building.

Overall, I was glad I visited Miramare. It is beautiful and absolutely worth seeing while in Trieste, although I wouldn’t put it in the same category as something like Sintra in Portugal, which felt much more spectacular and dramatic to me. Miramare is more restrained — lovely gardens, wonderful setting, interesting history — but not overwhelmingly impressive.

By the time I finished, the heat and humidity were definitely getting to me. I retraced my route, took bus #6 back into town and walked to the hotel. I was hot, sticky and uncomfortable, and a shower immediately became the best idea in the world.

After cooling down and feeling human again, I went out for an early dinner at Adesso è Così, which had been recommended to me.

Unfortunately, this turned out to be the disappointment of the day.

I ordered essentially the same kind of meal I had eaten the night before — a whole grilled branzino with grilled vegetables. The bill came to €58, more than twice what I had paid the previous evening at Marinato for a very similar dinner. And the frustrating part was that it wasn’t even better. In fact, I thought yesterday’s fish and vegetables were noticeably better.

Because the fish was charged by weight, I couldn’t help wondering afterward whether I had somehow been overcharged or simply ended up with a much larger fish than I realized. Either way, the value felt poor and I would not go back.

After dinner I walked about 25 minutes to the historic Caffè San Marco. The café was surprisingly quiet when I arrived, which made it easy to look around and appreciate the interior. It immediately reminded me of the grand cafés in Vienna — elegant, old-fashioned and slightly intellectual in atmosphere.

I ordered a macchiato and their signature 1914 cake, which turned out to be absolutely delicious. The café itself was worth visiting just for the atmosphere, but the cake made the stop even better.

From there I slowly made my way back through the center and crossed Piazza Unità d’Italia again. The square was beautifully illuminated, but what struck me most was how quiet it felt. There were people drinking aperitivo at outdoor tables and some activity around the bars, but overall I expected much more evening energy.

In many other European cities, a grand central piazza like this would be bursting with street musicians, performers, families and people lingering late into the evening. Trieste feels different. So far it seems more subdued and reserved — elegant, peaceful and somewhat restrained rather than exuberant.

It wasn’t a bad thing, just surprising.

And despite all the warnings about thunderstorms, not a single storm arrived. The day stayed hot, muggy and dry from beginning to end.

By the time I returned to the hotel, I felt tired but happy. Miramare was lovely, the gardens were peaceful, the cappuccino was unexpectedly memorable, dinner was a miss, Caffè San Marco was a hit, and Trieste continued to reveal itself as a city that is quieter and more understated than I expected.

Today’s favorites

Best small moment: the cappuccino in the Miramare gardens.
Best food: Brunch Republic breakfast and the 1914 cake at Caffè San Marco.
Biggest disappointment: the €58 branzino dinner at Adesso è Così.
Most interesting observation: how surprisingly quiet Piazza Unità and central Trieste feel in the evening.
Overall impression: Miramare is beautiful and worth seeing, but Trieste itself is proving more subtle than dramatic.

 

Europe 2026

Day 1 (08/18-08/19) – From California to the Adriatic

After months of planning, dozens of reservations, countless spreadsheets, packing lists, and conversations with ChatGPT, the adventure finally began.

Boris drove me to San Francisco Airport early in the morning. The drive was smooth, and before I knew it we were saying goodbye. Leaving home for almost six weeks felt a little surreal. I was excited, but also slightly unsettled. It was by far the longest solo trip I had ever taken.

Security at SFO turned out to be the easiest I’ve ever experienced. There wasn’t a single person in line. Within minutes I was through and on my way to the Polaris Lounge.

The United Polaris Lounge at SFO is impressive. Spread over two floors, it offers plenty of seating areas, workspaces, shower suites, and a beautiful sit-down dining room. Although the lounge was fairly busy, it was still easy to find a comfortable place to relax. I waited about fifteen minutes for a table in the dining room and enjoyed scallops and peach burrata as appetizers. Both were delicious. Their signature Polaris burger was good, although not something I’d rave about. I skipped the bun and paired lunch with a glass of Italian Pinot Grigio—my first little taste of Europe before even leaving California.

Boarding was right on time, and I settled into seat 3A. The Polaris seat isn’t the newest business-class product out there, but I found it very comfortable and surprisingly private. The bedding was excellent, with two pillows, a cozy duvet, and an additional mattress pad that made sleeping much easier.

Dinner service was efficient and friendly. I had pre-ordered the black cod after hearing so many recommendations. It was perfectly fine, but I wouldn’t say it was a standout meal.

During the flight I watched The Housemaid, which I really enjoyed, continued reading Isabel Allende’s The House of the Spirits on my Kindle, and managed to sleep almost five hours—far better than I had expected. When I woke up, I brushed my teeth, freshened up, had scrambled eggs with cream cheese and coffee for breakfast, and watched a couple of episodes of The Office, which never fails to make me smile.

Before long we were descending into Rome.

Walking off the plane, I was immediately reminded that I was in Italy in August. The sun was blazing, and the temperature was around 90°F (32°C). From our arrival gate, passengers boarded an air-conditioned bus for the short ride to the main terminal. It was crowded but comfortable.

I followed the signs for transit passengers toward the A gates and encountered passport control. To my amazement, there wasn’t a single person in line. Everything was fully automated, and I was through immigration in less than a minute. It was probably the fastest passport control I’ve ever experienced.

My flight to Trieste was delayed by about half an hour, and there was still no gate assignment, so I decided to have lunch at Eataly.

I was genuinely impressed. The Eataly at Rome Airport is much larger than the one at Valley Fair back home, with numerous restaurants, cafés, fresh markets, and food counters. The entire place was buzzing with people and energy. For lunch I ordered a fresh salmon poke bowl with rice, avocado, edamame, mango, cucumber, and sesame. It was fresh, flavorful, and just the right size—not one of those oversized bowls that leaves you feeling stuffed. After lunch, I treated myself to a proper Italian cappuccino and half of a delicious pasticciotto filled with pastry cream and amarena cherries. It was the perfect little welcome to Italy.

Soon my gate - A46 - was finally announced.

The Rome to Trieste flight wasn’t very full, and once again I got lucky with an empty middle seat next to me. After all the worrying about carry-on weight before leaving home, nobody asked to weigh my luggage. I spent the short flight reading my Kindle while looking forward to finally reaching my first destination.

We landed in Trieste around 7:00 PM.

Trieste Airport was compact and easy to navigate. Within minutes I found the taxi stand. My driver was pleasant and welcomed me warmly. Instead of taking the congested coastal road, he took a scenic route parallel to the coast but higher up along the hillside.

It turned out to be the perfect introduction to Trieste.

As we climbed above the city, he pointed out the Istrian coastline, the lighthouse, and neighborhoods scattered across the hillsides. The Adriatic stretched out below us while the setting sun painted the water in brilliant shades of gold and orange. It was one of those magical arrivals that no amount of planning can create.

The taxi cost €90, and I paid with my credit card.

I had completed online check-in the day before, and the hotel had even called to make sure I had received all the access codes. Everything worked exactly as planned. Within minutes I was in my room.

My first impression of Maria Cristina Boutique Rooms was excellent.

The room is modern, recently renovated, stylish, and thoughtfully designed. The bathroom is beautiful, with a spacious walk-in shower, excellent lighting, a large standing mirror, comfortable bed, plenty of storage, and everything I could possibly need. Most importantly after nearly twenty hours of travel—it was wonderfully quiet.

I took a long, refreshing shower, unpacked just enough to settle in, and headed out to explore.

The waterfront was only a short walk away.

My first glimpse of Trieste was everything I had hoped for. The sea was perfectly calm, sailboats gently rocked in the harbor, and the evening light reflected beautifully across the Adriatic. The city felt elegant, peaceful, and completely different from anywhere else I had visited in Italy before. As I stood watching the sunset, I realized something.

I’m really here.

All the anxiety I had felt before leaving California was gone.

Following ChatGPT’s recommendation, I had dinner at Marinato, a seafood restaurant near the waterfront. I kept things simple and ordered grilled sea bass with roasted vegetables and a fresh salad. The fish was incredibly fresh, perfectly cooked, and exactly what I wanted after a long day of travel. Together with sparkling water, the entire dinner came to just €26, including the traditional Italian cover charge.

Walking back afterward, I couldn’t resist taking more photographs. The harbor looked even more beautiful after dark. Boats rested quietly in the marina, lights shimmered across the water, and the magnificent sailing yacht Koru sat anchored offshore against the fading twilight.

Back in my room, I couldn’t help but smile.

Every flight had gone smoothly.

Every reservation had worked.

The hotel was exactly what I hoped for.

Trieste had already charmed me.

What had started as a day filled with uncertainty ended with complete excitement for the next six weeks.

Tomorrow: Miramare Castle.