Day 48 - October 5, 2026

Art, Coffee, and the Quiet Elegance of Rome

By my fourth day in Rome, the city had begun to feel familiar.

I no longer felt the urge to rush from one famous monument to another. Instead, I found myself enjoying the simple rhythm of Roman life—taking care of small things, lingering over coffee, wandering without a strict plan, and allowing the city to reveal itself one beautiful surprise at a time.

A Relaxed Morning

The morning began with another leisurely hotel breakfast before walking to Boho Nails Roma for my manicure.

It was one of those pleasant little travel rituals that makes a long journey feel sustainable—taking care of ordinary things while living in extraordinary places.

With freshly manicured nails, I headed toward what would become the highlight of the day.

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj

I had originally considered spending the day exploring Ancient Rome.

Instead, I chose Palazzo Doria Pamphilj.

It turned out to be one of the very best decisions of my entire stay in Rome.

From the outside, the palace gives almost no hint of what lies behind its walls.

Inside, however, room after room unfolds into an astonishing private world of art, history, and aristocratic splendor.

Unlike many museums, nothing felt sterile.

The palace still feels like a home—because in many ways, it still is.

Walking through richly decorated rooms surrounded by painted ceilings, silk-covered walls, crystal chandeliers, antique furniture, and paintings covering nearly every available surface, I never felt as though I was visiting a museum.

I felt as though I had been invited into the home of one of Rome’s great families.

Meeting the Pamphilj Family

As I wandered through the palace, I became almost as interested in the family as in the art itself.

The story begins with Pope Innocent X, whose election transformed the fortunes of the Pamphilj family and left an unmistakable mark on Rome.

The palace itself became far more than simply a residence.

It became a statement of power, culture, ambition, and extraordinary taste.

Unlike many aristocratic collections that were eventually dispersed, the Doria Pamphilj collection remained remarkably intact through centuries of careful stewardship and family history.

Even today, descendants of the family still live in part of the palace, making it feel less like a museum and more like a living piece of history.

Learning about the family’s story—their marriages, inheritances, famous ancestors, and even modern family disputes—made the paintings feel connected to real people rather than anonymous collectors from centuries ago.

Masterpieces That Stay With You

The palace is filled with extraordinary works of art, but several have stayed with me.

Velázquez’s Portrait of Pope Innocent X is every bit as powerful as its reputation suggests. Standing before it, I understood why it is considered one of the greatest portraits ever painted. The pope’s penetrating gaze seems almost unsettlingly alive, as though he is quietly judging every visitor who enters the room.

The Caravaggios were equally memorable.

His Rest on the Flight into Egypt surprised me with its tenderness and tranquility, while Penitent Magdalene revealed how much emotion can be expressed through remarkable simplicity.

I also spent time learning about the Brueghel family of painters and discovered that their works reward slow looking. Every inch contains another tiny story waiting to be discovered.

The entire collection invited exactly the opposite of rushing.

It invited lingering.

More Than a Museum

Perhaps what impressed me most wasn’t any single masterpiece.

It was the experience of seeing all of them exactly where they had lived for centuries.

The paintings weren’t isolated on minimalist white walls.

They remained surrounded by velvet, marble, mirrors, chandeliers, family portraits, and beautifully decorated rooms that formed part of the artwork itself.

The palace reminded me that these masterpieces were originally meant to be lived with.

That realization changed the way I experienced every room.

Coffee with Friends

After leaving the palace, I met friends at Slow – Specialty Coffee & Pastry Lab, a wonderful little café that turned out to be one of the best coffee stops of my time in Rome.

Excellent coffee, delicious pastries, and relaxed conversation made it the perfect place to sit for a while and simply enjoy the afternoon.

It’s exactly the kind of place I love discovering while traveling—modern, unpretentious, and filled with people who clearly appreciate great coffee.

An Afternoon Wander

From there, we wandered toward the Pantheon, hoping to step inside before closing.

Unfortunately, by the time we arrived, around 6:20 p.m., it was no longer possible to visit.

Rather than being disappointed, we simply kept walking.

Our stroll eventually brought us toward Piazza del Popolo, where I had hoped to see the famous Caravaggio paintings inside the Basilica of Santa Maria del Popolo.

But Rome had another plan.

The church was closed for Mass, so once again, the paintings would have to wait for another visit.

Oddly enough, neither disappointment felt frustrating.

They simply became part of an afternoon spent wandering through Rome without urgency, enjoying the city exactly as it unfolded.

A Different Side of Rome

Leaving the historic center behind, I continued into Flaminio, a neighborhood very different from the Rome most visitors experience.

Quieter, residential, and unmistakably local, it offered a glimpse into everyday Roman life beyond the postcard views.

It felt refreshing to end the day somewhere that wasn’t trying to impress tourists.

Dinner at Aroma Flaminio

The neighborhood turned out to hide another wonderful discovery.

At Aroma Flaminio, I enjoyed one of the most memorable dinners of the trip.

I began with a beautifully prepared red prawn tartare, delicately seasoned with cashews, truffle, and orange zest. It sounded unusual on paper, but every flavor complemented the sweetness of the shrimp beautifully.

For my main course, I chose roasted octopus served with porcini mushrooms and chestnut jam.

It was unmistakably autumnal—smoky, earthy, slightly sweet, and unlike anything I had eaten elsewhere during my travels. The combination of tender octopus with the richness of porcini and the subtle sweetness of chestnut was both comforting and surprisingly elegant.

It was exactly the kind of neighborhood restaurant I hope to find when traveling: excellent food, no pretension, and a room filled mostly with locals rather than tourists.

Another perfect recommendation.

Reflections

Today’s Rome felt very different from the Rome of guidebooks.

There were no ancient ruins, no long lines, and no race from one famous monument to the next.

Instead, there was a magnificent private palace, stories of powerful families whose influence shaped the city for centuries, masterpieces that rewarded patient looking, wonderful coffee shared with friends, leisurely walks through beautiful streets, a few doors that happened to be closed, and an unforgettable dinner in a neighborhood far removed from the tourist crowds.

I realized something today.

The longer I stay in a city, the less interested I become in checking off famous sights.

Instead, I begin looking for places that reveal its true character.

Today, Rome revealed another layer of itself—one built not only on emperors and ancient ruins, but on families, collectors, neighborhood cafés, quiet streets, hidden restaurants, and the simple pleasure of slowing down enough to notice them.

 

Day 47 - October 4, 2026 

A Perfect Roman Sunday

Some days are built around famous monuments.

Others become memorable because of the unexpected moments that happen in between.

Today was one of those days.

It wasn’t about checking another landmark off the list. Instead, it became a day of beautiful discoveries, wonderful conversations, thoughtful shopping, and one magical Roman evening that couldn’t possibly have been planned.

A Leisurely Roman Morning

I began the day with a wonderful buffet breakfast at the hotel, taking my time instead of rushing out the door. After weeks of trains, changing hotels, and constantly moving from place to place, it felt luxurious to simply enjoy a slow morning.

With coffee in hand, I made only a loose plan. There were a few practical errands, but nothing that required watching the clock. It was exactly the kind of relaxed day I had been craving.

Shopping Like a Roman

I spent the morning wandering through the streets of Monti and central Rome, searching for a few meaningful gifts to bring home.

Rather than visiting international luxury stores, I found myself drawn to independent Italian boutiques and artisan shops, looking for things that genuinely reflected the craftsmanship and style I had been discovering throughout the trip.

Finding the right gifts turned out to be surprisingly satisfying. There is something special about bringing home objects that carry a sense of place rather than simply a recognizable brand. Every little shop had its own personality, and I enjoyed taking my time, comparing fabrics, colors, and craftsmanship instead of rushing from one purchase to the next.

The Discovery of Jia Li

Then came the surprise of the day.

Walking through the streets of Monti, I wandered into Jia Li, a small independent boutique that immediately felt like one of those discoveries every traveler hopes to make.

This wasn’t fast fashion or international luxury. It was thoughtful design, beautiful fabrics, comfortable silhouettes, and clothing with real personality.

One piece caught my eye.

Then another.

Then another.

Before I knew it, I had accidentally assembled what felt like an entirely new Roman capsule wardrobe.

Everything somehow worked together—understated elegance, interesting shapes, and just enough originality to feel unlike anything waiting for me back home.

At one point I simply laughed.

I had very clearly exceeded my imaginary shopping budget for the trip.

But looking at everything together later that evening, it didn’t feel impulsive at all. Every piece reminded me of wandering through Monti, discovering hidden boutiques, and falling in love with contemporary Italian design.

Sometimes travel brings home memories in photographs.

Sometimes it brings them home in clothes you’ll wear for years.

A Small Adventure with Chase

In the middle of all the shopping, my phone suddenly buzzed.

Possible fraud detected.

Chase had declined an unfamiliar online transaction.

For a little while, the day turned into detective work.

I mentally reconstructed every purchase from the previous several days—museum tickets, transit passes, coffee, hotels, restaurants, taxes, shopping—trying to identify whether I had simply forgotten something.

Eventually it became clear that the mysterious charge wasn’t mine.

Fortunately, the physical card was still safely in my wallet, Chase had already blocked the suspicious transaction, and I was able to report it immediately. Crisis avoided.

Every long journey seems to include at least one unexpected administrative adventure.

A Well-Earned Pause

After all the excitement, I realized I needed a break.

Carrying several shopping bags, I stopped at Luna for a cappuccino and a maritozzo, Rome’s iconic sweet brioche filled with freshly whipped cream.

I found a cozy table inside, away from the bustle of the street, and finally had a chance to slow down. Looking through my purchases over coffee, I realized there was no rush anymore. The errands were nearly finished, the card situation had been resolved, and I could simply enjoy what had become one of the most unexpectedly satisfying shopping days of the entire trip.

Sometimes the best travel moments aren’t attached to famous landmarks.

Sometimes they’re simply a good coffee, an indulgent pastry, tired feet, and the quiet satisfaction of a day unfolding even better than expected.

One Practical Necessity

There was only one consequence of my shopping success.

By late afternoon, I had officially outgrown my luggage.

After a bit of friendly negotiation at a local luggage shop, I walked away with a lightweight expandable suitcase that would safely carry the growing collection of treasures I had accumulated over the past seven weeks.

Problem solved.

Piazza Navona at Sunset

With all my shopping safely back at the hotel, the rest of the evening belonged entirely to Rome.

I walked to Piazza Navona, arriving just as the golden light softened across Bernini’s magnificent Fountain of the Four Rivers.

Knowing the stories behind the fountain—the four great rivers, the Pamphilj family, the ancient Stadium of Domitian hidden beneath the piazza, and the artistic rivalry between Bernini and Borromini—made me appreciate the square even more.

It is one of those places where history doesn’t feel distant.

It feels alive.

An Unexpected Celebration

From Piazza Navona I wandered toward Trastevere.

As I crossed into the neighborhood, the atmosphere changed completely.

The streets were absolutely packed—not only with visitors, but with what felt like large numbers of young Romansenjoying their Sunday evening. There were certainly plenty of tourists, but what struck me most was how alive the neighborhood felt with locals. Friends gathered in piazzas, people stood chatting outside bars with drinks in hand, restaurants buzzed with conversation, and every narrow street seemed full of energy.

Then the music began.

Banners appeared.

Clergy in ceremonial robes walked slowly through the neighborhood while a marching band followed behind.

At first, I honestly thought I had stumbled upon a funeral procession.

Instead, I had accidentally arrived during the celebrations for the Feast of St. Francis of Assisi, commemorating the 800th anniversary of his death.

The timing couldn’t have been more meaningful.

Only a few days earlier I had stood inside the Basilica of St. Francis in Assisi, learning about his extraordinary life and philosophy. Now, completely by chance, I found myself watching Romans celebrate his feast day in one of the city’s most beautiful neighborhoods.

Travel has a remarkable way of creating these unexpected connections.

Dinner at Jacopa

Dinner was at Jacopa, and it became one of my favorite meals in Rome.

Instead of a traditional trattoria, Jacopa offered beautifully prepared contemporary Italian cuisine served as small plates that invited sharing and conversation.

The dishes were creative without trying too hard—seasonal ingredients, thoughtful combinations, and elegant presentation without unnecessary complexity.

Even better, I spent the evening with friends, making the meal feel less like another restaurant visit and more like a celebration of everything the day had become.

And then, as if Rome still had one last surprise waiting…

Fireworks suddenly exploded above Trastevere.

The sky lit up while the celebration of St. Francis continued below, creating one of those magical travel moments that no itinerary could ever predict.

Reflections

Today reminded me that some of the best travel experiences happen when you leave room for spontaneity.

I set out with only a handful of practical errands in mind.

Instead, I discovered one of my favorite boutiques of the entire trip, found meaningful gifts, solved a small credit-card mystery, accidentally built a Roman wardrobe, enjoyed a leisurely cappuccino and maritozzo, negotiated a new suitcase, wandered through Piazza Navona at sunset, stumbled into an eight-hundred-year-old religious celebration, shared a wonderful dinner with friends, and ended the evening beneath unexpected fireworks over Trastevere.

There wasn’t a single museum or famous monument that defined the day.

Instead, it was Rome itself—the neighborhoods, the craftsmanship, the cafés, the surprises, the celebrations, and the effortless way history and everyday life continue to intertwine—that made this one of the most memorable days of my journey.

I walked back to the hotel smiling, grateful once again that some of the very best travel days are the ones you could never have planned.

 

Day 46 - October 3, 2026

Tivoli, Fountains & an Evening in Monti

After several wonderful days in Umbria, today was devoted to one of the great treasures just outside Rome: Tivoli.

I joined a guided day tour that included both Hadrian’s Villa (Villa Adriana) and Villa d’Este—two UNESCO World Heritage Sites that complement one another beautifully, telling the story of Rome from two very different eras.

Hadrian’s Villa

We began at the vast imperial estate built by Emperor Hadrian in the 2nd century AD. It felt less like visiting a palace and more like walking through the remains of an entire city.

The enormous baths, libraries, temples, gardens, pools, and ceremonial spaces gave a glimpse into the extraordinary scale of imperial Rome. Hadrian was fascinated by architecture and travel, and throughout the complex he recreated places that had inspired him during his journeys across the empire.

Even in ruins, the villa conveys a remarkable sense of ambition and sophistication. Standing among the remains, it wasn’t difficult to imagine philosophers strolling beneath colonnades, servants hurrying between buildings, and the emperor himself seeking moments of quiet reflection away from Rome.

Our guide, unfortunately, wasn’t the highlight of the day. She tended to be repetitive and, if I’m being honest, a bit annoying. I found myself enjoying the visit most when I wandered a few steps behind the group, exploring at my own pace and letting my imagination fill in the stories that the stones still tell.

Villa d’Este

If Hadrian’s Villa impressed me intellectually, Villa d’Este completely stole my heart.

Although many of the famous fountains weren’t operating at full strength because the river water feeding the system was temporarily too dirty, the gardens were still absolutely breathtaking.

Walking through the terraces, it became immediately clear why Villa d’Este is considered one of the greatest masterpieces of Renaissance landscape design. Everywhere I looked there was another perfect composition of cascading water, elegant staircases, cypress trees, sculptures, and sweeping views over the countryside.

Some of my favorite highlights included:

• The magnificent Hundred Fountains, stretching endlessly along the garden wall.
• The dramatic Oval Fountain, one of the villa’s most iconic and beautiful features.
• The impressive Neptune Fountain, still stunning even without its full display.
• Countless smaller fountains tucked into hidden corners, each creating its own peaceful atmosphere.

It would honestly be impossible to choose a single favorite. Every few minutes I found myself stopping to admire another view or another ingenious water feature.

An incredible place that felt both grand and deeply peaceful.

Lunch

For lunch I stopped at Da Andrea a Villa d’Este, just outside the gardens.

I ordered homemade gnocchi with lamb ragù, a wonderfully comforting meal after a morning of walking through ancient ruins and Renaissance gardens. Simple, flavorful, and exactly what the day called for.

An Evening Walk Through Ancient Rome

After returning to Rome, I wandered through the streets around the Roman Forum, soaking in the atmosphere as daylight softened into evening. Rather than entering the archaeological sites, I simply enjoyed walking among the ruins that have shaped so much of Western history.

From there, I caught beautiful views of the Colosseum in the distance. Seeing its massive silhouette rising above the city, especially after spending the morning at Hadrian’s Villa, tied together the different chapters of Rome’s extraordinary past.

Shopping in Monti

I continued into Monti, one of my favorite neighborhoods in Rome, where the afternoon gradually turned into a delightful shopping adventure.

Instead of international luxury brands, I discovered independent Italian designers creating clothing with personality, beautiful fabrics, and distinctive cuts.

I found several pieces that felt uniquely Italian and far more interesting than anything I would have found in a department store. It was one of those afternoons where every little side street seemed to hide another inviting boutique, making it almost impossible to stop looking “just one more shop.”

Dinner at Valerio

To end the day, I had dinner at Valerio Ristorante di Pesce, a cozy seafood restaurant tucked away on Via del Boschetto in Monti.

It turned out to be another excellent recommendation.

I began with a beautifully prepared tuna tartare, served in an Asian-inspired style. The tuna was exceptionally fresh, silky, and delicately seasoned, allowing the quality of the fish to shine without overwhelming it.

For my main course, I chose a perfectly cooked sea bass fillet (spigola). Moist, flaky, and elegantly simple, it reminded me how satisfying excellent ingredients can be when treated with restraint.

A glass of crisp white wine completed the meal.

The atmosphere was warm and relaxed, the service attentive without ever feeling intrusive, and after a full day of exploring, shopping, and walking, it was exactly the kind of dinner I had hoped for.

Reflections

Today beautifully captured the many faces of Rome.

In the morning, I wandered through the immense remains of an emperor’s dream. In the afternoon, I was enchanted by one of the world’s greatest Renaissance gardens. Later, I strolled through the heart of Ancient Rome, admired the Colosseum rising above the city, enjoyed discovering Monti’s independent boutiques, and finished the evening with an excellent seafood dinner.

Looking back, it was one of the most balanced days of the entire trip—combining imperial history, Renaissance beauty, leisurely exploration, shopping, and wonderful food. It reminded me that some of the best travel days aren’t about rushing from monument to monument, but about allowing the city to reveal itself one beautiful experience at a time.

 

Day 45 - October 2, 2026 

Rome at Last

After three memorable days in Perugia and wonderful excursions to Assisi and Spello, today marked the beginning of the final chapter of my European adventure: Rome.

The morning was intentionally unhurried. I checked out of Times Suites and boarded my direct regional train to Rome. After weeks of changing trains, navigating stations, and occasionally sprinting between platforms, this journey felt wonderfully simple. By early afternoon I arrived at Roma Termini and took a short taxi ride to my home for the next five nights: Relais Quattro Fontane.

My first impression of the hotel was very positive. It was clean, comfortable, and pleasantly understated rather than luxurious. What immediately stood out, however, was the location. Nestled near Barberini and Quirinale, it felt like the perfect base for exploring Rome on foot without constantly relying on transportation.

Rather than trying to squeeze in major sightseeing on arrival day, I kept the afternoon practical and relaxed. One of my first stops was a pharmacy, where I stocked up on a few items that had been on my shopping list: azelaic acid, estrogen, and Phyto hair oil. After comparing European skincare brands over the past few weeks, it was satisfying to take advantage of Italy’s excellent pharmacies before heading home.

Dinner was at I Girasoli, where I ordered ravioli accompanied by a glass of Grillo DOC Sicilia white wine. It was a quiet, pleasant first meal in Rome—exactly the kind of relaxed evening I wanted before the busy days ahead.

As the sun began to set, I walked to the Spanish Steps, enjoying my first Roman evening. There was no pressure to check landmarks off a list. Instead, I simply wandered, taking in the elegant streets, the warm October air, and the feeling of finally reaching the last destination of a journey that had begun nearly seven weeks earlier.

Afterward I returned to the hotel for an early night. Tomorrow would be my excursion to Tivoli, and I wanted to begin Rome feeling rested rather than exhausted.

Looking back, today wasn’t about seeing Rome’s greatest monuments. It was about arriving, settling in, and letting the city slowly introduce itself. After thousands of miles, countless train rides, mountain hikes, medieval towns, vineyards, lakes, and unforgettable meals across Europe, it felt surprisingly fitting that the final stop would begin so quietly.

 

Day 44 - October 1, 2026

Assisi, Spello, and a Day of Inspiration

Some places are beautiful because of their scenery. Others because of their history. Assisi is memorable for something more difficult to describe—it has a quiet spirit that seems to slow everyone down.

My day began in Perugia with one eye on the Italian rail strike that threatened tomorrow’s trip to Rome. After reviewing my options, I boarded the 11:48 train to Assisi, ready to put logistics aside and immerse myself in one of Italy’s most important pilgrimage destinations.

The Basilica of Saint Francis exceeded every expectation. Walking between the Upper and Lower Basilica felt like traveling through different worlds. The soaring Gothic architecture above contrasted beautifully with the intimate atmosphere below, where Saint Francis himself rests. Giotto’s frescoes brought his remarkable life to life, telling the story of a young man who abandoned wealth to embrace humility, compassion, and a profound love for nature.

One question stayed with me throughout the visit: how could someone who dedicated his life to poverty be honored with such a magnificent basilica? Learning the history helped answer that paradox. The grandeur was never intended to celebrate wealth, but to honor the extraordinary impact of a man whose message continues to inspire people more than eight centuries later.

After the basilica, I enjoyed lunch at Trattoria Pallotta, choosing homemade Capellacci. For once, I skipped the wine, content to enjoy a leisurely meal before continuing my walk through the town.

My next stop was the Basilica of Santa Chiara. Standing before the San Damiano Cross and learning about Clare’s unwavering devotion added another layer to the Franciscan story. I smiled at the unexpected connection between Saint Clare, Santa Clara in California, and my own life back home. Assisi also introduced me to Blessed Carlo Acutis, whose modern story reminds visitors that holiness isn’t confined to the distant past.

By mid-afternoon I took the short train ride to Spello, one of Umbria’s most enchanting villages. Wandering through its narrow stone lanes, overflowing flower boxes, and quiet corners felt wonderfully unhurried. The Baglioni Chapel, with Pinturicchio’s brilliant Renaissance frescoes, was a highlight, and simply getting lost among the beautifully decorated streets was part of the charm.

The return journey to Perugia involved the usual small dose of Italian rail puzzle-solving, but after sorting out the correct train I was soon back in the city for my final evening.

Dinner was at Ristorante del Sole, perched on the edge of the historic center with sweeping views over the Umbrian valley. This time I decided to follow ChatGPT’s recommendations to the letter—and it turned into one of my favorite meals in Perugia. I began with a perfectly slow-cooked egg served over silky Parmesan cream with freshly shaved truffle, a deceptively simple dish rich with earthy Umbrian flavors. For my main course, I chose wild boar braised with apples and onions, a wonderful combination of savory game meat balanced by the gentle sweetness of the fruit. I couldn’t resist dessert: a pear slowly poached in red wine, served with dark chocolate and mascarpone cream. It was an elegant and memorable finish to a meal that celebrated the region’s culinary traditions as beautifully as the day’s sightseeing celebrated its history.

Looking back, what made this day so memorable wasn’t just the extraordinary places I visited. It was the conversations they inspired. Francis and Clare weren’t simply historical figures whose churches I toured—they became people whose ideas still feel surprisingly relevant today. Combined with the peaceful beauty of Spello, the day offered a rare combination of history, art, spirituality, and quiet reflection.

Some destinations impress you with their monuments. Assisi and Spello quietly change the pace of your thoughts. That may be their greatest gift.

Day 43 - September 30th, 2026

Perugia: Layers of History and an Evening of Music

When I first planned my time in Umbria, I thought of Perugia mainly as a convenient base for visiting Assisi. By the end of the day, I realized that was selling the city far short. Perugia doesn’t demand attention the way Florence or Rome do—it reveals itself gradually, layer by layer, rewarding anyone willing to slow down.

I started the morning with breakfast at Pinturicchio Cafe+Kitchen, a relaxed beginning before setting out to explore the city.

One of the day’s highlights was the Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria. The museum offered a beautiful journey through Umbrian art, with masterpieces spanning the Middle Ages and the Renaissance. After weeks of visiting churches throughout France and northern Italy, seeing these paintings in their regional context made many familiar names and artistic styles come together in a new way.

From there I descended into one of Perugia’s most fascinating places: Rocca Paolina. Rather than simply touring a fortress, I found myself walking through an entire buried medieval neighborhood. Stone streets, arches, and passageways survive beneath the massive Renaissance fortress built after the city was conquered. Few places make history feel so tangible—you literally walk through one century while another rises above your head.

Perugia itself felt wonderfully authentic. It is a lively university city, but one that has managed to preserve its medieval character without feeling like an open-air museum. Wandering its streets, climbing staircases, and emerging unexpectedly into elegant piazzas became as enjoyable as visiting the major sights themselves.

Dinner was at Trattoria Oberdan, where I enjoyed bruschetta followed by creamy strangozzi pasta and a quarter-liter of local white wine. After a full day of walking, it was exactly the kind of simple Umbrian meal that felt comforting rather than elaborate.

The perfect ending came later that evening. I attended the closing concert of the 81st Sagra Musicale Umbra in the magnificent Basilica di San Pietro. The program featured Mendelssohn’s youthful and energetic Octet for Strings, Op. 20, followed by Mozart’s radiant Coronation Mass. Listening to live classical music inside such a beautiful basilica was one of those travel experiences that cannot be planned around landmarks alone. The music, the setting, and the atmosphere combined to create a memorable final chapter to the day.

Perugia surprised me. I expected a pleasant stopover. Instead, I discovered a city with remarkable depth—one where art, history, architecture, and music quietly weave together into an experience that feels distinctly Umbrian. It left me looking forward even more to what awaited the next day in Assisi.

 

Day 42 - September 29, 2026

From the Dolomites to the Heart of Umbria

Today marked the transition from the dramatic peaks of the Dolomites to the rolling hills of Umbria. It was a true travel day—one with a few unexpected adventures—but it all ended exactly the way I like: wandering beautiful streets, enjoying a wonderful dinner, and feeling excited about discovering a new region of Italy.

Leaving ADLER Dolomiti turned out to be more eventful than expected. My carefully planned journey began with an attempt to catch Bus 350 to Bolzano. When the bus arrived, however, it was already completely packed. There simply wasn’t enough room for passengers with luggage, and I had to watch it leave without me. It was one of those reminders that public transportation in popular mountain destinations can be unpredictable, especially during hotel checkout hours. Fortunately, the hotel quickly arranged a taxi. It wasn’t cheap—€125 for the ride to Bolzano—but with a reserved high-speed train to catch, it was money well spent and completely removed the stress of wondering whether another bus would have room. The drive through Val Gardena one last time was a beautiful farewell to one of my favorite places of the entire trip, and I reached Bolzano with plenty of time for my train.

The rail journey itself went smoothly for the most part, but not without a couple of adrenaline-filled moments.

The first came at Terontola-Cortona. As the train stopped, I discovered that the door nearest my seat refused to open. With only a brief stop at the station, I suddenly found myself racing through the carriage with my carry-on, backpack, and crossbody bag, hoping another door would work before the train departed. Thankfully it did, but those few seconds felt much longer than they really were.

The excitement wasn’t over yet. On the final regional train into Perugia, I realized I was once again in the wrong carriage to exit. As the train approached the station, I quickly gathered all my bags and hurried into the next car so I could step off before the doors closed. Thankfully I made it without incident, but by then I felt as though the journey had included one last travel challenge before welcoming me to Umbria.

Checking into Times Suites was easy, and before long I was wandering the medieval streets of Perugia for the first time.

My first impression was how dramatically different it felt from the Dolomites. Perugia rises gracefully over a hill, its narrow stone streets climbing between centuries-old buildings, with hidden stairways and unexpected little piazzas around every corner. I made my way to one of the panoramic viewpoints overlooking the Umbrian countryside, where layers of terracotta rooftops stretched toward soft green hills in the fading evening light. After days surrounded by towering limestone peaks, the gentler landscape felt like an entirely different Italy.

As darkness settled, I wandered through Piazza IV Novembre, admired the magnificent Fontana Maggiore, stood before the beautifully illuminated Palazzo dei Priori, and strolled along Corso Vannucci, where locals and students filled the cafés and streets late into the evening. The atmosphere felt vibrant yet relaxed—lively without being overwhelming. Before returning to the hotel, I paused once more at the panoramic terrace overlooking the Umbrian valleys. It was the perfect place to take in my first evening in this beautiful city.

Dinner was at I Birbi, a cozy local restaurant full of character. I began with Tortelli Ripieni di Squacquerone, Funghi di Stagione, Pesto di Rucola e Mandorle Tostate—delicate stuffed pasta filled with creamy Squacquerone cheese, served with seasonal mushrooms, arugula pesto, and toasted almonds. For my main course, I chose the wonderfully tender Pluma di Maiale Iberico de Bellota, paired with a glass of Viognier. The wine was light, fruity, and beautifully smooth—exactly the style I enjoy. While it wasn’t quite as gently sweet as my favorite white wines from France, it complemented both dishes perfectly and made for a memorable first dinner in Umbria.

Today wasn’t about checking off famous sights—it was about moving from one remarkable region of Italy to another. There were a few stressful moments, a few deep breaths, and a reminder that travel rarely unfolds exactly according to plan. Yet those little mishaps have a funny way of becoming the stories I remember most. Yesterday I was hiking beneath the towering cliffs of Seceda; tonight I was strolling through the medieval heart of Perugia with a glass of Italian wine still lingering in my memory. Italy has an incredible ability to reinvent itself from one region to the next, and today felt like turning the page to an entirely new chapter of this journey.

 

Day 41 - September 28, 2026 

Beneath the Walls of Seceda

My final full day in the Dolomites turned out to be one of the most memorable. Instead of hiking on my own, I joined one of ADLER’s organized excursions—a small international group of about eight guests. A few were Italian, a few German, and several spoke English. Our guide effortlessly switched between all three languages, making everyone feel included.

Rather than following the popular panoramic trails crowded with visitors, he led us onto quieter paths beneath the towering cliffs of Seceda, where we often had the mountains almost entirely to ourselves. It felt like discovering a hidden side of the Dolomites that most visitors never experience.

What I loved most was the incredible variety of landscapes. We walked through beautiful alpine forests filled with pines, larches, and other mountain trees, where the scent of the woods mixed with the cool morning air. The trail constantly changed—from soft forest paths to open alpine meadows, then into dramatic rocky terrain directly beneath the enormous limestone walls of Seceda. Every turn revealed a different perspective of these spectacular mountains.

Before we reached the more technical section, our guide warned us that there would be a few exposed passages. He wasn’t exaggerating. Some stretches were narrow, rocky, and sloped toward steep drop-offs. Wearing my Hoka hiking sneakers, I realized they weren’t ideal for this kind of terrain—the cushioning was wonderful, but the grip wasn’t confidence-inspiring on loose limestone and polished rocks.

Those sections definitely pushed me outside my comfort zone. I found them a bit scary, carefully choosing every step while trying not to look too far down. Fortunately, our guide was incredibly attentive. He noticed when I hesitated and helped me through several of the trickier passages, offering a steady hand and practical advice about where to place my feet. Thanks to him, everything went smoothly, and I finished the hike feeling proud rather than intimidated.

The rewards were more than worth it. The views beneath the towering Seceda cliffs were simply breathtaking, with jagged limestone peaks rising above green alpine pastures and forests below. Standing directly beneath those massive rock faces gave me a completely different appreciation for the scale of the Dolomites than seeing them from scenic viewpoints alone.

One of the day’s unexpected highlights was learning about the area’s fascinating geology. The Dolomites were once part of a warm tropical sea over 200 million years ago, and fossils are surprisingly common in some of these limestone formations. Our guide encouraged us to keep our eyes on unusual-looking rocks along the trail. Several members of our group found beautiful fossil impressions, and it was amazing to hold pieces of ancient marine life in our hands while surrounded by mountains.

He also told us about the famous Besano Formation and other Triassic deposits in the region, where remarkably preserved marine reptiles—including ichthyosaurs (often called “fish lizards”)—have been discovered. It is astonishing to think that these dramatic peaks were once the floor of an ancient ocean, long before the Alps were pushed skyward by tectonic forces.

After returning to the hotel, I spent the rest of the afternoon exactly as I wanted: relaxing at the wonderful ADLER Spa. The pools, gardens, saunas, and quiet relaxation rooms felt even more enjoyable after the day’s adventure. A wonderful massage completed the experience, easing tired muscles and leaving me completely relaxed.

The evening ended with another excellent dinner, followed by live music at the bar. Sitting with a glass of wine, listening to the band, and reflecting on the past week, I realized how special my time in the Dolomites had been. The combination of extraordinary landscapes, challenging but rewarding hikes, outstanding hospitality, and the incredible wellness facilities made this one of the highlights of my entire European journey.

Leaving the next day would be difficult—but I already knew I would be back. Next time, hopefully with Boris, to share these mountains with someone who would love them just as much as I did.

Day 40 - September 27, 2026

A Perfect Day on Alpe di Siusi

After yesterday’s dramatic cliffs and knife-edge ridges of Seceda, today was intentionally gentler. I woke feeling noticeably better—thankfully whatever had sidelined me for a couple of days finally seemed to be fading. The morning was brilliantly clear, with deep blue skies promising another beautiful Dolomites day.

After a leisurely breakfast at ADLER Dolomiti, I took the Ortisei–Alpe di Siusi (Mont Sëuc) gondola up to Europe’s largest high alpine meadow. Almost immediately, the atmosphere felt completely different from Seceda. Instead of towering cliffs overhead, Alpe di Siusi is all about vast open spaces, gently rolling green pastures, scattered wooden huts, grazing animals, and the spectacular backdrop of the Sassolungo (Langkofel) and Sassopiatto (Plattkofel) massifs dominating the horizon.

The hike itself wasn’t particularly challenging, but it was wonderfully relaxing. The broad gravel paths meandered through open meadows beneath impossibly blue skies. At one point I stopped at Schgaguler Schwaige simply for water, sitting outside for a few minutes and enjoying the peaceful atmosphere before continuing toward Baita Sanon.

When I finally reached Sanon, I discovered one of those moments that simply cannot be rushed. Comfortable lounge chairs had been placed on the grass overlooking one of the most beautiful mountain panoramas imaginable. I settled into one, looking directly toward Sassolungo and Sassopiatto, and immediately lost all motivation to continue hiking. It was one of those rare travel moments when doing absolutely nothing felt like exactly the right decision.

I wasn’t even hungry despite the time, so rather than forcing myself to eat lunch simply because it was lunchtime, I simply relaxed in the sunshine, soaking in the silence and the magnificent scenery. Sometimes the best part of a hike isn’t the walking—it’s allowing yourself to simply be present.

Eventually, I pulled myself away from that perfect chair and continued the return hike. The second half climbed gradually back toward the Mont Sëuc station through forests and meadows. It wasn’t difficult, just enough uphill to feel like I’d earned my afternoon at the spa.

Back at ADLER, the day somehow became even better. I spent several blissful hours enjoying every corner of the spa. I floated between the indoor and outdoor pools, lingered in the beautiful garden while basking in the warm afternoon sunshine, and stretched out in the quiet relaxation rooms with nothing to do except appreciate how peaceful everything felt. I also spent time in the ladies-only sauna, which quickly became one of my favorite parts of the wellness area—calm, beautifully designed, and wonderfully restorative after two days in the mountains.

At 6:00 PM I had a massage that was exactly what my body needed. The therapist seemed to find every tired hiking muscle without making the treatment overly intense, and afterward I felt completely relaxed.

Dinner that evening was another highlight. Once again, ADLER reminded me why I had been looking forward to this stay. Excellent food, attentive service, and the elegant atmosphere made for a perfect ending to a nearly flawless day. After spending the afternoon completely unwinding, I enjoyed every course even more than usual.

Looking back, today wasn’t about conquering peaks or covering impressive distances. It was about slowing down, appreciating the extraordinary beauty of Alpe di Siusi, and giving myself permission to linger in one perfect spot simply because I didn’t want to leave. And then, instead of rushing off to another attraction, I returned to one of Europe’s finest mountain spa hotels and allowed myself to enjoy it exactly as it was meant to be enjoyed.

Sometimes travel is about discovering new places.

Sometimes it’s about finding the perfect chair with the perfect view, sinking into warm pools afterward, ending the day with a wonderful massage and an exceptional dinner—and realizing there’s nowhere else you’d rather be.

 

Day 39 - September 26, 2026

One of the Finest Days of My European Journey

If yesterday convinced me that ADLER was an extraordinary spa resort, today confirmed that Ortisei deserves its legendary reputation. It was one of those rare days when everything came together perfectly—the mountains, the weather, the people, the food, and the simple joy of being exactly where I wanted to be.

The Raschötz (Raschiesa) Hike

This morning I joined ADLER’s guided hike to Raschötz (Raschiesa), and without exaggeration it immediately became one of the five most beautiful hikes I’ve ever experienced.

What made it so extraordinary wasn’t one single viewpoint, but the incredible variety packed into a single day.

The trail wound through fragrant forests before opening onto expansive alpine meadows dotted with weathered wooden huts and grazing animals. We crossed rolling grassy ridges that looked like scenes from The Sound of Music, only to suddenly find ourselves beneath the towering limestone walls of the Dolomites.

The scenery was constantly changing.

Every bend in the trail revealed another spectacular panorama. Every ridge seemed to outdo the previous one.

One of my favorite moments was coming across a group of donkeys peacefully grazing in the mountain pastures. They looked perfectly at home in this idyllic landscape and added another layer of charm to an already unforgettable hike.

The terrain itself was wonderfully varied—soft forest paths, open alpine pastures, gentle climbs, rocky mountain sections, panoramic ridgelines and endless meadows filled with fresh mountain air. It never became repetitive. Instead, it felt like walking through several completely different landscapes in one hike.

Mother Nature couldn’t have been more generous today.

The weather was absolutely perfect, with brilliant sunshine, pleasantly cool temperatures and spectacular visibility. The mountains stretched endlessly into the distance, every ridge crisp and sharply defined. Days like this are a gift in the Alps.

The evening before I had ordered ADLER’s hiking lunch (€19), which turned out to be excellent. Inside was a delicious focaccia sandwich, bottled water, an energy bar and a cookie. It was actually more food than I needed. I ate about half the sandwich while sitting high in the mountains surrounded by breathtaking scenery and saved the rest for later.

Seceda – A Place Beyond Expectations

After finishing the hike, I decided I couldn’t leave Ortisei without finally seeing Seceda.

Nothing prepares you for that first view.

The famous ridgeline rises dramatically above emerald-green alpine meadows, with enormous limestone cliffs plunging toward the valley below. Behind them stretches an endless procession of jagged Dolomite peaks. It is one of those landscapes that simply stops you in your tracks.

I understood immediately why Seceda has become one of the iconic views of the Alps.

The guide told us that mornings can become incredibly crowded, but visiting in the afternoon turned out to be perfect. There were certainly visitors, yet there was still plenty of space to quietly sit on a bench, admire the mountains and simply absorb the moment.

I had briefly considered stopping for a drink at the mountain restaurant, but instead chose to sit alone overlooking the cliffs. It turned out to be exactly the right decision.

Sometimes the view itself is enough.

The lift tickets, however, are expensive.

Earlier in the day I had already paid €24 for the first lift to meet the hiking group. Only during the hike did our guide mention the Gardena Card, which costs €120 for three days and would have provided much better value. Unfortunately, by then it was too late—I had already purchased today’s ticket.

Later I paid another €68 to ride up to Seceda and all the way back down to Ortisei, bringing today’s transportation total to €92.

I do wish I had known about the Gardena Card beforehand.

Still…

Looking back, every euro felt worthwhile.

Some places truly deserve their reputation.

Seceda is unquestionably one of them.

Back at ADLER

Returning to the hotel felt almost like coming home.

I finished the rest of my focaccia sandwich while sitting comfortably at the bar with a perfectly made cappuccino, enjoying the peaceful atmosphere after such an active day.

A Mediterranean Feast

Dinner somehow managed to exceed even yesterday’s outstanding meal.

Tonight’s theme celebrated the Mediterranean, and the buffet was astonishing.

There was an incredible selection of seafood, including my favorite large baked scallops served in their shells, baked oysters, beautiful sashimi, several perfectly prepared fish dishes and tender venison, along with countless salads and Mediterranean specialties.

The quality throughout was exceptional.

Then came the dessert buffet.

Just when I thought ADLER couldn’t surprise me again, I walked into what looked like a luxury pâtisserie.

There was a flowing chocolate fountain surrounded by fresh strawberries, refreshing lemon sorbet served inside frozen real lemons, elegant mousse cakes, fruit tarts, miniature pastries, creamy tiramisu, beautifully crafted cakes and desserts in every imaginable shape and flavor.

Choosing was nearly impossible.

In the end I stayed surprisingly restrained.

I enjoyed fish, a small portion of venison, scallops, sashimi, strawberries dipped into the chocolate fountain, the wonderfully refreshing lemon sorbet, and tiny tastes—less than a bite each—of several other desserts simply to experience their flavors.

Reflections

Today reminded me why I travel.

Not to rush from one famous attraction to another, but to experience days exactly like this.

A magnificent guided hike through one of the world’s most beautiful mountain landscapes.

One of the most breathtaking viewpoints I’ve ever visited.

Perfect weather.

Quiet moments simply sitting on a bench overlooking Seceda.

Returning to what has become my favorite spa resort.

And ending the day with extraordinary food.

Some travel days are enjoyable.

Others become lifelong memories.

Today unquestionably became one of the latter.

 

Day 38 - September 25, 2026 

From Merano to the Dolomites: Arrival at ADLER Spa Resort

Today was moving day. After four restorative nights in Merano, it was time to head into the heart of the Dolomites—to Ortisei and ADLER Spa Resort Dolomiti.

Although I was still recovering from whatever virus decided to accompany me on this trip, I finally felt like I had turned a corner. My Oura Ring stubbornly continued reporting “Major Signs” with elevated resting heart rate and body temperature, but the numbers were clearly trending in the right direction, and more importantly, I actually felt noticeably better. Progress.

The transfer itself turned into more of an adventure than expected.

I boarded the first bus from Merano to Bolzano, only to discover the ticket machine wasn’t working. The bus was packed, there was no luggage compartment underneath, and with my suitcase, backpack and still not feeling 100%, it was impossible to safely fight my way to the driver without abandoning my luggage. In the end I unintentionally rode the entire first bus without a ticket—not exactly my proudest public transportation moment, but certainly not for lack of trying.

The second bus to Ortisei was even busier.

Fortunately I was among the first at the entrance, because several people were left behind. I had to quickly jump off again after boarding to open the luggage compartment underneath, wrestle my suitcase inside, then scramble back onto the bus before it departed, all while making sure my backpack wasn’t left behind. Traveling alone with luggage while recovering from illness definitely earns extra credit.

By early afternoon I finally arrived in Ortisei and checked into ADLER Spa Resort Dolomiti.

The resort immediately felt special.

After skipping lunch during the transfer, I ordered a simple Caprese salad and resisted the temptation of the complimentary pastries at the bar—well… mostly resisted.

Rather than pushing myself to explore the town, I devoted the afternoon to discovering the spa.

The Salt Grotto was my first stop. Floating effortlessly in the warm, highly saline water beneath the soft lighting was wonderfully calming. Although the session was scheduled for ninety minutes, about twenty-five minutes of floating felt perfect, followed by another twenty-five minutes relaxing in the adjoining salt sauna.

From there I wandered into the adults-only textile-free spa island, discovering quiet relaxation rooms, beautiful saunas and finally the small panoramic pool overlooking the surrounding mountains. Swimsuits were required for the pool itself, creating an interesting contrast with the surrounding wellness area. Everything felt beautifully designed, peaceful and remarkably tasteful.

Dinner completely exceeded my expectations.

The evening menu beautifully reflected South Tyrolean cuisine while adding refined modern touches. I chose:

• Seared scallops with peas and crispy South Tyrolean speck.
• Plin of beef tail, served with saffron foam and morel mushrooms.
• Confit veal cheek with creamy polenta and Swiss chard.

Each course was elegant without trying too hard, perfectly cooked, and wonderfully balanced.

Alongside the menu was an impressive buffet filled with fresh salads, vegetables and seasonal accompaniments.

Then came the dessert room.

Calling it a dessert buffet almost feels unfair—it resembled a boutique pastry shop curated by a Michelin-level pastry chef.

Beautiful individual creations were displayed like jewelry: raspberry tartlets topped with fresh berries and pistachios, glossy chocolate mousse cakes, blackberry mousse pastries, miniature tiramisu served in glass jars, creamy semifreddo-style cakes, colorful lemon pastries with velvet finishes, tiny macarons, fresh passion fruit, peaches, apples, and traditional apple strudel.

Everything was presented in intentionally small individual portions, making it dangerously easy to convince yourself that “just one more” wouldn’t hurt.

I settled on a tiramisu and sampled a few additional miniature desserts—small enough to satisfy curiosity without completely abandoning moderation.

Not a bad compromise.

As first impressions go, ADLER set an incredibly high standard. Between the thoughtful wellness facilities, exceptional cuisine and relaxed atmosphere, I already understood why so many guests return here year after year.

 

Day 37 - September 24

A Perfect Farewell to Merano

Today was my last full day in Merano, and it turned out to be a wonderful blend of art, nature, and relaxation.

I began the morning at the “Frauen im Licht / Luce di Donna” exhibition at Palais Mamming, which explored how women have been portrayed in art over the past century—from being primarily subjects and muses to becoming artists telling their own stories. It was a thoughtful way to start the day.

From there I wandered onto the beautiful Gilfpromenade, eventually climbing to the famous Tappeiner Promenade. The path wound high above Merano through Mediterranean vegetation, cypress trees, vineyards, and endless viewpoints over the town.

The hike grew much longer than I had expected. At one point I stopped at Knödelglück, where I realized just how dehydrated I had become. I drank an entire liter of still water almost immediately. It’s amazing how much better I felt afterward—the fatigue I had blamed on my lingering virus was, at least in part, simply dehydration.

Lunch was a beautiful autumn salad filled with roasted pumpkin, creamy soft cheese, pears, walnuts, chickpeas, berries, and fresh greens. It was exactly what my body wanted after the long walk.

The return proved more adventurous than planned. I kept expecting another convenient descent back into town, but eventually found myself near Quarazze with a forty-minute wait for the next bus. Instead, I called a Smart Taxi, which arrived within ten minutes and brought me back to the hotel for just €16. Not exactly the ending I had envisioned, but certainly the most comfortable one.

Back at Terme Merano, I enjoyed what would become one of the highlights of my stay: another massage with Sasinan, the wonderful Thai therapist who had also given me my previous treatment. She has an exceptional touch—firm when needed, intuitive, and incredibly relaxing. If I ever return to Merano, I will definitely request her again.

Dinner was back at the hotel’s Bistro. I ordered the same delicious soup with the two dumplings that I had enjoyed on my first evening in Merano, along with a different salad topped with tuna and mozzarella. Both were simple, fresh, and satisfying—exactly the kind of meal I wanted after such an active day.

Looking back, Merano exceeded every expectation. Between the beautiful promenades, outstanding spa facilities, unforgettable massages, and relaxed atmosphere, it became one of the most restorative stops of my entire journey. It is definitely a place I would love to revisit someday—perhaps for a longer wellness-focused stay.

 

Day 36 - September 23 

Trauttmansdorff Gardens and a Spa Day That Redefined Luxury

This morning I woke up feeling noticeably better. The sore throat was improving, congestion was still present but manageable, and for the first time in several days I felt that whatever bug I had picked up was finally beginning to lose the battle.

Today was dedicated to one of Merano’s greatest treasures: The Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle.

I had heard they were beautiful.

They somehow exceeded even those expectations.

These are not simply botanical gardens. They cover nearly 30 acres (12 hectares) across a dramatic hillside overlooking Merano, with more than 80 individual garden landscapes representing plants from all over the world. Walking through them feels less like visiting one garden and more like taking a journey through different climates and continents.

Within a surprisingly short walk I found myself moving from Mediterranean olive trees, cypresses and palms to Asian bamboo groves, exotic water lilies, desert succulents, English-style landscapes and Alpine vegetation—all connected by winding paths, terraces and extraordinary viewpoints over Merano and the surrounding mountains.

Every turn revealed another breathtaking panorama.

The gardens also have a wonderful sense of playfulness. Beautiful pavilions, artistic installations, themed landscapes, little bridges and water features make them feel alive rather than simply educational. It is obvious that enormous care has gone into creating not only botanical collections but emotional experiences.

At the highest point sits Trauttmansdorff Castle, famous as the place where Empress Elisabeth (“Sisi”) of Austriastayed during her visits to Merano in the 1870s. Her visits helped transform Merano into one of Europe’s most fashionable spa destinations, attracting aristocracy and wealthy visitors from across the continent.

Standing above the gardens and looking across the Merano basin, it was easy to understand why.

I spent several wonderful hours wandering without any particular hurry, simply enjoying the beauty around me.

Back at Hotel Therme Meran, the afternoon became every bit as memorable.

I returned once again to the Sky Spa, and if yesterday made me appreciate it, today confirmed that it is genuinely one of the finest hotel spas I have ever experienced.

The rooftop infinity saltwater pool has become one of my favorite places in Europe. Swimming laps while looking out across Merano toward the surrounding mountains feels almost surreal. The pool is large enough to actually swim rather than simply float, the massage jets are wonderful, and somehow it remains peaceful and uncrowded.

The relaxation rooms deserve special mention. Floor-to-ceiling windows frame the mountains like enormous living paintings while incredibly comfortable loungers invite you to simply stop doing anything. Fresh fruit, herbal teas, flavored water and healthy snacks are available throughout the day. Nothing feels forced or pretentious. Instead, everything quietly encourages you to slow down.

This afternoon I had my second treatment.

It turned out to be one of the finest massages I have ever received.

Every movement felt thoughtful, intuitive and perfectly paced. The therapist seemed to know exactly how much pressure to use and somehow managed to release weeks of accumulated tension from constant travel.

It was one of those rare treatments where time simply disappeared.

By the time it finished, I already knew I wanted another one.

So before leaving the treatment area, I promptly booked yet another massage for tomorrow.

That may be the highest compliment I can give.

One of the wonderful surprises was discovering that the Sky Spa remains open until 8:00 PM, which meant I still had almost another full hour to enjoy everything after my massage. Rather than getting dressed and leaving, I returned to the rooftop pool and relaxation area.

As the sun gradually disappeared behind the mountains, I spent the evening swimming in the infinity saltwater pool at sunset. The changing colors of the sky reflected in the water while the mountains slowly faded into evening light. It was peaceful, almost meditative, and one of those travel moments that no photograph can fully capture.

Afterward I settled once more into the relaxation room, looking out through the floor-to-ceiling windows as dusk fell over Merano.

I honestly cannot imagine a better way to end the day.

When I first planned this trip, I expected Merano to be a pleasant stop before the Dolomites.

Instead, it has quietly become one of the great surprises of the entire journey.

It offers something I didn’t even realize I needed after weeks of constant movement—a place where extraordinary natural beauty, thoughtful architecture, exceptional wellness and genuine relaxation all come together perfectly.

Sometimes the most memorable destinations aren’t the ones with the biggest monuments.

Sometimes they’re simply the ones that make you feel completely at peace.

 

Day 35 - September 22

Merano: History, Shopping and One of the Best Hotel Spas I’ve Ever Experienced

I woke up with my sore throat still present and congestion beginning to develop. My Oura Ring wasn’t particularly encouraging either, showing a low readiness score and clear signs that my body was under stress.

The good news: no fever.

So today’s goal became simple:

Explore Merano—but gently.

After a wonderful breakfast at Hotel Therme Meran, I walked into town.

Merano immediately felt different from anywhere else on the trip. It combines Alpine scenery with elegant Belle Époque architecture and an almost Mediterranean climate. Palm trees, flowers and beautiful promenades exist beneath towering mountains. It is an unusual and very charming combination.

I began at the magnificent Kurhaus, then wandered along the Passer Promenade and through the historic Wandelhalle, the elegant covered gallery decorated with paintings. I crossed the river, walked through beautiful Elisabeth Park, admired the theatre, and eventually reached the medieval Portici (Lauben) with its arcaded streets full of interesting little shops.

Naturally… I ended up shopping.

After trying several beautiful sweaters, including a cashmere model and another reversible design, I chose a wonderful 100% extra-fine reversible merino sweater by Ei’S / Letizia Denaro. The moss green, dusty pink and charcoal abstract pattern immediately stood out to me, and the fitted version looked significantly better than the looser model. It felt exactly like the kind of special piece I hoped to find somewhere in Europe rather than something I could buy back home.

Lunch was intentionally light—a shrimp salad at L’Insalatina—perfect after the generous hotel breakfast.

From there I continued to Duomo di San Nicolò, which turned out to be far more interesting than I expected. The Gothic church feels unmistakably Tyrolean rather than Italian and beautifully reflects Merano’s medieval history.

Even more fascinating was the adjacent St. Barbara Chapel. Inside were Gothic and Baroque altars alongside elaborate reliquaries containing the remains attributed to early Christian martyrs. One of them was identified as St. Paulanus. Seeing the richly decorated skeleton lying behind glass was both fascinating and slightly unsettling, especially after learning that the chapel had historically served as an ossuary connected to the old cemetery.

By early afternoon I returned to Hotel Therme Meran.

The remainder of the day became one of the true highlights of the trip.

The Sky Spa completely exceeded my expectations.

The rooftop infinity pool overlooks Merano and the surrounding mountains with breathtaking panoramic views. Unlike many hotel pools, it is actually long enough to swim proper laps and also features wonderful massage jets. Everything was peaceful and uncrowded.

I even spent some time in the bio sauna, which I found pleasantly warm rather than excessively hot.

At 4:00 PM I had my 75-minute Sleep Massage.

It was absolutely wonderful.

Exactly what my body needed after weeks of constant travel and yesterday’s marathon transfer.

After the massage I returned to what may be my favorite part of the spa—the extraordinary relaxation room. Comfortable loungers and sofas face floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the mountains, while water, teas, fruit and healthy snacks are available throughout the space. Every detail feels thoughtful, elegant and quietly luxurious.

I honestly felt that I could happily spend several days here.

Considering how much I normally love sightseeing, that’s saying something.

For dinner I stayed at La Piazza inside the hotel and enjoyed a comforting meal of soup with two traditional South Tyrolean bacon dumplings followed by the La Piazza shrimp salad.

Looking back, it was an almost perfect balance.

I wasn’t feeling completely healthy, yet I still experienced Merano’s history, architecture, atmosphere, found a wonderful souvenir to bring home, and spent an unforgettable afternoon in one of the finest hotel spas I’ve ever visited.

First impression of Merano: absolutely enchanting.

 

Day 34 - September 21 

Lyon to Merano: The Great Transfer Day

Today was almost entirely a travel day—and quite an adventure.

I left Lyon and flew EasyJet from Lyon Saint-Exupéry to Venice. From there the plan looked perfectly manageable on paper: get to Venezia Mestre, take the train to Verona, change for Bolzano, and finally take the bus to Merano.

Of course, travel days rarely care about plans.

After landing in Venice, I somehow ended up boarding a bus toward Venice Piazzale Roma instead of Venezia Mestre. Once I realized what had happened, there was a brief moment of panic because I had a specific train to catch. Fortunately, I figured out the recovery, took ACTV bus #2 back toward Mestre, and made it in time.

Then came another small lesson in Italian train travel.

At Venezia Mestre I spent several minutes trying to understand where my carriage would stop. Only about five minutes before the train arrived did the electronic platform displays finally show the coach positions. The message “Carrozza 1 in coda al treno”—coach 1 at the rear of the train—suddenly made perfect sense.

From Mestre I boarded the Frecciarossa to Verona, changed trains for Bolzano, and finally entered the Alps.

From Bolzano station I took bus 201 to Merano, getting off directly by Hotel Therme Meran.

By then it had been a very long day: airplane, wrong bus, correct bus, train, another train, another bus, and hauling luggage through every transfer.

But the reward at the end made everything worthwhile.

My room at Hotel Therme Meran immediately felt comfortable, modern and welcoming. Looking out toward the mountains, I realized I had arrived somewhere completely different from anywhere else on this trip.

Unfortunately, I also noticed the first signs of what felt like the beginning of a cold—a sore throat that had actually started the previous evening in Lyon. After weeks of airports, trains, hotels and crowds, perhaps it wasn’t entirely surprising.

Rather than trying to squeeze in sightseeing, I simply settled into my room.

France was behind me.

Ahead was South Tyrol—a fascinating place where Austrian and Italian cultures blend together—and four nights in Merano.

 

Day 33 - September 20

Last Day in Lyon

My last full day in Lyon, and another beautiful day of exploring.

I started the morning by heading up toward Croix-Rousse and Jardin Rosa Mir. Because it was Heritage Weekend, the little garden was open, and I was very glad I made the effort to see it. It is tiny but completely unique—a fantastical creation of stones, shells, plants and intricate structures tucked away almost secretly in the Croix-Rousse neighborhood. Very different from the grand sights of Lyon and exactly the kind of unusual place that makes wandering through a city worthwhile.

From there I made my way to Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse for lunch. The market was already beginning to wind down, but there was still plenty of activity. I chose Chez Léon, ordering gratinéed oysters and gratinéed scallops. Unfortunately, this became one of the few culinary disappointments of the trip. The food was perfectly acceptable but nothing memorable, especially considering the price. The scallops were particularly disappointing—€24 for five very small scallops served on a single shell. After so many outstanding meals throughout France, this one simply didn’t live up to Lyon’s extraordinary culinary reputation.

After lunch we stopped at Rakwi for coffee before continuing toward Vieux Lyon.

The highlight of the afternoon was undoubtedly Cathédrale Saint-Jean.

We arrived just before the evening service was about to begin. Initially I was disappointed because it meant we had very little time to photograph the cathedral, but that disappointment quickly disappeared. Instead of rushing out, we stayed for the service.

For about forty minutes I had the opportunity to experience the cathedral exactly as it was intended—not as a tourist attraction, but as a living place of worship. The magnificent organ filled the vast Gothic interior, the choir sang beautifully, and watching local residents quietly gather for evening Mass made the entire experience far more meaningful than simply walking through with a camera. It became one of my favorite cathedral experiences of the entire trip.

It was a fitting farewell to Lyon.

Over these few days the city had surprised me. I loved our authentic apartment near Hôtel de Ville, the architecture, the hills and river views, the traboules and Croix-Rousse, the wonderful atmosphere, and simply wandering through its neighborhoods. Heritage Weekend gave us access to places we normally would not have seen.

Lyon also turned out to be one of the great food cities of the trip. Pike quenelle, skate wing, pâté en croûte, wonderful cheeses, local wines—and, of course, far too many outstanding desserts.

Absolutely no regrets.

Tomorrow I would leave France after more than two wonderful weeks and continue my journey alone into northern Italy.

 

Day 32 - September 19, 2026

Living Like Locals in Lyon

Today was devoted to experiencing Lyon at a leisurely pace, and despite a frustrating start, it became one of those wonderfully unhurried travel days that often end up being the most memorable.

Our morning began with an ambitious mission: mailing another package home to California. Since my suitcase had become increasingly full after weeks of traveling through France, it seemed like the perfect solution.

Armed with a fairly heavy bag, we walked from our apartment to the nearby post office. Unfortunately, things quickly became more complicated than expected. The friendly postal employees explained that all parcels destined for the United States now required an online customs declaration. They patiently helped me create an account on the French postal website and attempted to complete the paperwork, only to discover that the website itself wasn’t functioning properly. The system repeatedly generated errors because, as they explained, customs rates were in the middle of being updated, preventing international declarations from being processed.

The employees genuinely tried to help but eventually had to admit there was nothing they could do.

C’est la vie.

There was nothing left except to carry the heavy package back.

To save time, I ordered an Uber for the return trip. Even that became a small adventure when the driver initially dropped me off at the wrong location. Fortunately, Google Maps on my phone came to the rescue, and after a little navigation we finally made it back to our apartment.

While I was wrestling with French bureaucracy, my friend had transformed the apartment into what felt like a miniature French gourmet breakfast.

She visited the neighborhood fromagerie, boulangerie, and boucherie, returning with an irresistible assortment of local specialties. Our breakfast became a feast: creamy fromage blanc, four wonderful cheeses—including two different fresh goat cheeses for me and two blue cheeses for her—fresh crusty bread, local charcuterie, pâté, and excellent coffee. Sitting together in our beautiful apartment on 9 Rue Romarin, enjoying authentic French products purchased just minutes earlier from neighborhood shops, felt less like tourism and more like temporarily living in Lyon.

After breakfast we wandered around the corner to a charming little square shaded by a magnificent old acacia tree. We settled onto the café terrace and both ordered Viennese coffee, lingering over our drinks while watching neighborhood life unfold around us. It was exactly the sort of relaxed morning that makes France so enjoyable.

From there we explored the nearby boutiques.

One purchase immediately stood out.

At the atelier of Mongi Guibane, I found a beautiful silk blouse inspired by the paintings of Wassily Kandinsky. The Tunisian-born designer creates wearable works of art by printing famous paintings and artistic motifs onto luxurious natural fabrics, producing garments that are both elegant and strikingly original. The blouse immediately caught my eye with its rich colors and abstract composition. We debated whether it was worth the €220 price tag, but in the end it felt like one of those rare pieces that is both wearable art and a meaningful souvenir from the trip. Looking back, I’m very glad I bought it.

Our next destination was Lyon’s Hôtel de Ville, exceptionally open to the public as part of the annual European Heritage Days (Journées Européennes du Patrimoine).

Normally closed except for official business, the seventeenth-century City Hall is considered one of France’s finest civic buildings. After a devastating fire in 1674, much of its magnificent interior was redesigned by Jules Hardouin-Mansart, the same architect responsible for many of the grand additions to the Palace of Versailles. Walking through the ceremonial salons, sweeping staircases, richly decorated reception rooms, gilded ceilings, crystal chandeliers, painted ceilings, and elaborate frescoes, it was impossible not to think of Versailles. It was every bit as opulent as one would expect from one of France’s most important cities and was undoubtedly one of the architectural highlights of our visit.

My friend and I then temporarily separated. She hoped to visit the Musée des Beaux-Arts, but luck was not on our side. The museum’s twentieth-century collection was already closed for renovation, and the remaining galleries unexpectedly closed at 1:00 p.m. because of a strike. We weren’t sure whether Sunday’s visit would be possible.

After meeting again, we continued wandering through Lyon’s elegant streets, browsing boutiques and admiring the city’s beautiful architecture.

One particularly enjoyable discovery was Les Pipelettes, a lovely boutique where my friend found a very unusual vest that suited her perfectly. It was one of those purchases that immediately felt right.

Somehow, despite all our wandering, we completely missed lunch again.

By the time we finally decided to sit down, we were mostly interested in resting our feet. We found another pleasant café where I ordered a homemade lemon tart, which turned out to be wonderfully fresh, bright, and delicious, accompanied by another excellent coffee.

The afternoon passed exactly as we’d hoped: leisurely walking, browsing boutiques, admiring Lyon’s magnificent nineteenth-century buildings, and simply soaking up the city’s atmosphere without feeling rushed.

For dinner, we once again trusted the guidebook waiting in our apartment.

Its recommendation led us to PY Restaurant Lyon 6, just a short and easy Metro ride away. Lyon’s Metro proved to be modern, clean, efficient, and remarkably easy to use.

Dinner became yet another confirmation of why Lyon is so widely regarded as France’s gastronomic capital.

My friend began with French mussels served with Isigny cream, green bean fusilli, sorrel flan, marinated cucumber, and a delicate sea-salt crumble. Her main course featured Paimpol white beans from Brittany, clams simmered with late-summer vegetables, fennel aioli, and Kalamata olives, followed by fromage blanc as her cheese course.

I chose an equally creative menu.

My starter featured paper-thin slices of courgette over a silky broad bean and artichoke purée with pistachio paste, accompanied by finely diced half-cooked tuna and a pepper vinaigrette. Every bite combined freshness, texture, and subtle flavors.

For my main course I enjoyed a beautifully cooked European plaice fillet served over soft polenta with an aubergine velouté enriched with white miso, green bean shavings, and roasted tomato pesto. The combination was unusual yet perfectly balanced.

Dessert was perhaps the most memorable course of the evening: oven-baked figs with lemon oil, hazelnut biscuit, pistachio cream, ginger-lime velouté, and fig leaf ice cream. It was imaginative, elegant, and absolutely delicious. I deliberately stopped after finishing about two-thirds—a small victory over temptation after so many wonderful desserts throughout the trip.

Rather than taking the Metro back, we decided to enjoy the beautiful evening and walked the roughly twenty minutes home. Crossing the bridge over the Saône, we paused several times to admire Lyon illuminated at night. The reflections of churches, historic buildings, and elegant façades shimmered across the river, creating one of the most beautiful evening cityscapes we’d seen in France.

Two dinners in two nights—first at Léon de Lyon, then at PY Restaurant—completely justified Lyon’s international reputation as one of the world’s great culinary capitals. Combined with beautiful architecture, relaxed cafés, neighborhood shopping, and the simple pleasure of wandering without a strict itinerary, today felt less like sightseeing and more like genuinely experiencing daily life in Lyon.

It was exactly the kind of day I hope to remember long after I forget the names of individual monuments.

Day 31 - September 18, 2026

From the Loire to Lyon

Our final morning at Domaine de la Charpinière left mixed impressions. The hotel itself was comfortable, the room pleasant, and we genuinely enjoyed both dinners at the restaurant. However, the spa was surprisingly disappointing. Despite offering only a small jacuzzi and a modest sauna, access was priced at an astonishing €100 per person, and there were no treatment appointments available. Rather than feeling disappointed, we decided to spend the afternoon exploring something completely unexpected—and it turned out to be one of the highlights of the day.

Just a short drive away in Chazelles-sur-Lyon, we visited the Atelier-Musée du Chapeau (Hat Museum). Housed inside the beautifully restored former Fléchet hat factory, the museum celebrates the town’s remarkable history as one of France’s great centers of felt-hat production. During the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, Chazelles-sur-Lyon became one of the country’s leading centers for manufacturing high-quality felt hats, with thousands of skilled craftsmen producing hats that were exported throughout Europe and beyond.

Although the guided tour was offered only in French, we decided to explore the museum on our own, and it turned out to be far more fascinating than we had expected. The beautifully curated exhibits explained every stage of traditional felt-hat production, from raw rabbit fur to the elegant finished product, while historic machinery illustrated just how labor-intensive the craft once was.

The museum also displayed hundreds of remarkable hats worn by notable figures such as Grace Kelly and Paul Bocuse, alongside creations from prestigious fashion houses including Dior, Hermès, Nina Ricci, and Paco Rabanne. Even without the guided explanation, it was easy to appreciate the extraordinary craftsmanship behind an accessory that today is often taken for granted.

Before leaving, I found an unexpected souvenir—a wonderfully distinctive rust-colored beret that fit me perfectly. It wasn’t a typical tourist purchase but something genuinely unique, beautifully made, and unmistakably French. It felt like the perfect keepsake from a museum dedicated to the art of hat making, and I’m sure every time I wear it I’ll remember this delightful surprise of a museum.

After returning our rental car at Lyon–Saint Exupéry Airport, we headed into the city and checked into our apartment at 9 Rue Romarin, 69001 Lyon. We immediately loved it. The location on the slopes of Croix-Rousse felt ideal—quiet enough to feel like a real neighborhood, yet only a short walk from the Hôtel de Ville, the Opera, and the Presqu’île. The apartment itself was charming, comfortable, and thoughtfully equipped, including an excellent guidebook to Lyon that would soon prove invaluable.

That guidebook led us to dinner at Léon de Lyon, one of the city’s historic restaurants, serving Lyonnais cuisine for well over a century. It was exactly the kind of traditional dining experience we had hoped to find.

We shared several dishes:

• the house Léon de Lyon pâté en croûte, beautifully prepared and delicious, though we both agreed it would have been even better served warm;
• Lyon’s famous pike quenelle, wonderfully light and delicate despite its rich Nantua sauce;
• skate wing à la Grenobloise, perfectly cooked with browned butter, capers, lemon, and crisp croutons.

To accompany dinner, we sampled two different white wines by the glass:

• V.D.F. “Reméage” 2024 – Les Vins de Vienne
• A.O.P. Beaujolais Blanc “Alexis” 2024

We each drank only about half a glass of each wine, but both were excellent. The fresh, aromatic whites paired beautifully with the fish dishes and gave us another opportunity to appreciate the diversity of wines from this region of France.

After dinner, we wandered through Lyon at night, enjoying our first glimpse of the city illuminated. The elegant façade of the Hôtel de Ville, the striking architecture of the Opéra de Lyon, and the beautifully lit Palais de la Bourse looked magnificent after dark. The broad squares, graceful nineteenth-century buildings, and warm evening atmosphere immediately conveyed why Lyon is often considered one of France’s most beautiful cities.

Rather than trying to see everything at once, we simply strolled, admired the architecture, and allowed ourselves to absorb the atmosphere. It was a perfect introduction to the city.

By the end of the evening, Lyon had already won us over. A fascinating and unexpected museum, a beautiful new apartment in the heart of the city, an outstanding traditional Lyonnais dinner, excellent regional wines, and a magical nighttime walk combined to create a wonderful first impression. We went to bed genuinely excited for the two full days we had ahead to discover one of France’s greatest cities.