Day 44 - October 1, 2026

Assisi, Spello, and a Day of Inspiration

Some places are beautiful because of their scenery. Others because of their history. Assisi is memorable for something more difficult to describe—it has a quiet spirit that seems to slow everyone down.

My day began in Perugia with one eye on the Italian rail strike that threatened tomorrow’s trip to Rome. After reviewing my options, I boarded the 11:48 train to Assisi, ready to put logistics aside and immerse myself in one of Italy’s most important pilgrimage destinations.

The Basilica of Saint Francis exceeded every expectation. Walking between the Upper and Lower Basilica felt like traveling through different worlds. The soaring Gothic architecture above contrasted beautifully with the intimate atmosphere below, where Saint Francis himself rests. Giotto’s frescoes brought his remarkable life to life, telling the story of a young man who abandoned wealth to embrace humility, compassion, and a profound love for nature.

One question stayed with me throughout the visit: how could someone who dedicated his life to poverty be honored with such a magnificent basilica? Learning the history helped answer that paradox. The grandeur was never intended to celebrate wealth, but to honor the extraordinary impact of a man whose message continues to inspire people more than eight centuries later.

After the basilica, I enjoyed lunch at Trattoria Pallotta, choosing homemade Capellacci. For once, I skipped the wine, content to enjoy a leisurely meal before continuing my walk through the town.

My next stop was the Basilica of Santa Chiara. Standing before the San Damiano Cross and learning about Clare’s unwavering devotion added another layer to the Franciscan story. I smiled at the unexpected connection between Saint Clare, Santa Clara in California, and my own life back home. Assisi also introduced me to Blessed Carlo Acutis, whose modern story reminds visitors that holiness isn’t confined to the distant past.

By mid-afternoon I took the short train ride to Spello, one of Umbria’s most enchanting villages. Wandering through its narrow stone lanes, overflowing flower boxes, and quiet corners felt wonderfully unhurried. The Baglioni Chapel, with Pinturicchio’s brilliant Renaissance frescoes, was a highlight, and simply getting lost among the beautifully decorated streets was part of the charm.

The return journey to Perugia involved the usual small dose of Italian rail puzzle-solving, but after sorting out the correct train I was soon back in the city for my final evening.

Dinner was at Ristorante del Sole, perched on the edge of the historic center with sweeping views over the Umbrian valley. This time I decided to follow ChatGPT’s recommendations to the letter—and it turned into one of my favorite meals in Perugia. I began with a perfectly slow-cooked egg served over silky Parmesan cream with freshly shaved truffle, a deceptively simple dish rich with earthy Umbrian flavors. For my main course, I chose wild boar braised with apples and onions, a wonderful combination of savory game meat balanced by the gentle sweetness of the fruit. I couldn’t resist dessert: a pear slowly poached in red wine, served with dark chocolate and mascarpone cream. It was an elegant and memorable finish to a meal that celebrated the region’s culinary traditions as beautifully as the day’s sightseeing celebrated its history.

Looking back, what made this day so memorable wasn’t just the extraordinary places I visited. It was the conversations they inspired. Francis and Clare weren’t simply historical figures whose churches I toured—they became people whose ideas still feel surprisingly relevant today. Combined with the peaceful beauty of Spello, the day offered a rare combination of history, art, spirituality, and quiet reflection.

Some destinations impress you with their monuments. Assisi and Spello quietly change the pace of your thoughts. That may be their greatest gift.