Day 46 - October 3, 2026

Tivoli, Fountains & an Evening in Monti

After several wonderful days in Umbria, today was devoted to one of the great treasures just outside Rome: Tivoli.

I joined a guided day tour that included both Hadrian’s Villa (Villa Adriana) and Villa d’Este—two UNESCO World Heritage Sites that complement one another beautifully, telling the story of Rome from two very different eras.

Hadrian’s Villa

We began at the vast imperial estate built by Emperor Hadrian in the 2nd century AD. It felt less like visiting a palace and more like walking through the remains of an entire city.

The enormous baths, libraries, temples, gardens, pools, and ceremonial spaces gave a glimpse into the extraordinary scale of imperial Rome. Hadrian was fascinated by architecture and travel, and throughout the complex he recreated places that had inspired him during his journeys across the empire.

Even in ruins, the villa conveys a remarkable sense of ambition and sophistication. Standing among the remains, it wasn’t difficult to imagine philosophers strolling beneath colonnades, servants hurrying between buildings, and the emperor himself seeking moments of quiet reflection away from Rome.

Our guide, unfortunately, wasn’t the highlight of the day. She tended to be repetitive and, if I’m being honest, a bit annoying. I found myself enjoying the visit most when I wandered a few steps behind the group, exploring at my own pace and letting my imagination fill in the stories that the stones still tell.

Villa d’Este

If Hadrian’s Villa impressed me intellectually, Villa d’Este completely stole my heart.

Although many of the famous fountains weren’t operating at full strength because the river water feeding the system was temporarily too dirty, the gardens were still absolutely breathtaking.

Walking through the terraces, it became immediately clear why Villa d’Este is considered one of the greatest masterpieces of Renaissance landscape design. Everywhere I looked there was another perfect composition of cascading water, elegant staircases, cypress trees, sculptures, and sweeping views over the countryside.

Some of my favorite highlights included:

• The magnificent Hundred Fountains, stretching endlessly along the garden wall.
• The dramatic Oval Fountain, one of the villa’s most iconic and beautiful features.
• The impressive Neptune Fountain, still stunning even without its full display.
• Countless smaller fountains tucked into hidden corners, each creating its own peaceful atmosphere.

It would honestly be impossible to choose a single favorite. Every few minutes I found myself stopping to admire another view or another ingenious water feature.

An incredible place that felt both grand and deeply peaceful.

Lunch

For lunch I stopped at Da Andrea a Villa d’Este, just outside the gardens.

I ordered homemade gnocchi with lamb ragù, a wonderfully comforting meal after a morning of walking through ancient ruins and Renaissance gardens. Simple, flavorful, and exactly what the day called for.

An Evening Walk Through Ancient Rome

After returning to Rome, I wandered through the streets around the Roman Forum, soaking in the atmosphere as daylight softened into evening. Rather than entering the archaeological sites, I simply enjoyed walking among the ruins that have shaped so much of Western history.

From there, I caught beautiful views of the Colosseum in the distance. Seeing its massive silhouette rising above the city, especially after spending the morning at Hadrian’s Villa, tied together the different chapters of Rome’s extraordinary past.

Shopping in Monti

I continued into Monti, one of my favorite neighborhoods in Rome, where the afternoon gradually turned into a delightful shopping adventure.

Instead of international luxury brands, I discovered independent Italian designers creating clothing with personality, beautiful fabrics, and distinctive cuts.

I found several pieces that felt uniquely Italian and far more interesting than anything I would have found in a department store. It was one of those afternoons where every little side street seemed to hide another inviting boutique, making it almost impossible to stop looking “just one more shop.”

Dinner at Valerio

To end the day, I had dinner at Valerio Ristorante di Pesce, a cozy seafood restaurant tucked away on Via del Boschetto in Monti.

It turned out to be another excellent recommendation.

I began with a beautifully prepared tuna tartare, served in an Asian-inspired style. The tuna was exceptionally fresh, silky, and delicately seasoned, allowing the quality of the fish to shine without overwhelming it.

For my main course, I chose a perfectly cooked sea bass fillet (spigola). Moist, flaky, and elegantly simple, it reminded me how satisfying excellent ingredients can be when treated with restraint.

A glass of crisp white wine completed the meal.

The atmosphere was warm and relaxed, the service attentive without ever feeling intrusive, and after a full day of exploring, shopping, and walking, it was exactly the kind of dinner I had hoped for.

Reflections

Today beautifully captured the many faces of Rome.

In the morning, I wandered through the immense remains of an emperor’s dream. In the afternoon, I was enchanted by one of the world’s greatest Renaissance gardens. Later, I strolled through the heart of Ancient Rome, admired the Colosseum rising above the city, enjoyed discovering Monti’s independent boutiques, and finished the evening with an excellent seafood dinner.

Looking back, it was one of the most balanced days of the entire trip—combining imperial history, Renaissance beauty, leisurely exploration, shopping, and wonderful food. It reminded me that some of the best travel days aren’t about rushing from monument to monument, but about allowing the city to reveal itself one beautiful experience at a time.