Day 36 - September 23 

Trauttmansdorff Gardens and a Spa Day That Redefined Luxury

This morning I woke up feeling noticeably better. The sore throat was improving, congestion was still present but manageable, and for the first time in several days I felt that whatever bug I had picked up was finally beginning to lose the battle.

Today was dedicated to one of Merano’s greatest treasures: The Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle.

I had heard they were beautiful.

They somehow exceeded even those expectations.

These are not simply botanical gardens. They cover nearly 30 acres (12 hectares) across a dramatic hillside overlooking Merano, with more than 80 individual garden landscapes representing plants from all over the world. Walking through them feels less like visiting one garden and more like taking a journey through different climates and continents.

Within a surprisingly short walk I found myself moving from Mediterranean olive trees, cypresses and palms to Asian bamboo groves, exotic water lilies, desert succulents, English-style landscapes and Alpine vegetation—all connected by winding paths, terraces and extraordinary viewpoints over Merano and the surrounding mountains.

Every turn revealed another breathtaking panorama.

The gardens also have a wonderful sense of playfulness. Beautiful pavilions, artistic installations, themed landscapes, little bridges and water features make them feel alive rather than simply educational. It is obvious that enormous care has gone into creating not only botanical collections but emotional experiences.

At the highest point sits Trauttmansdorff Castle, famous as the place where Empress Elisabeth (“Sisi”) of Austriastayed during her visits to Merano in the 1870s. Her visits helped transform Merano into one of Europe’s most fashionable spa destinations, attracting aristocracy and wealthy visitors from across the continent.

Standing above the gardens and looking across the Merano basin, it was easy to understand why.

I spent several wonderful hours wandering without any particular hurry, simply enjoying the beauty around me.

Back at Hotel Therme Meran, the afternoon became every bit as memorable.

I returned once again to the Sky Spa, and if yesterday made me appreciate it, today confirmed that it is genuinely one of the finest hotel spas I have ever experienced.

The rooftop infinity saltwater pool has become one of my favorite places in Europe. Swimming laps while looking out across Merano toward the surrounding mountains feels almost surreal. The pool is large enough to actually swim rather than simply float, the massage jets are wonderful, and somehow it remains peaceful and uncrowded.

The relaxation rooms deserve special mention. Floor-to-ceiling windows frame the mountains like enormous living paintings while incredibly comfortable loungers invite you to simply stop doing anything. Fresh fruit, herbal teas, flavored water and healthy snacks are available throughout the day. Nothing feels forced or pretentious. Instead, everything quietly encourages you to slow down.

This afternoon I had my second treatment.

It turned out to be one of the finest massages I have ever received.

Every movement felt thoughtful, intuitive and perfectly paced. The therapist seemed to know exactly how much pressure to use and somehow managed to release weeks of accumulated tension from constant travel.

It was one of those rare treatments where time simply disappeared.

By the time it finished, I already knew I wanted another one.

So before leaving the treatment area, I promptly booked yet another massage for tomorrow.

That may be the highest compliment I can give.

One of the wonderful surprises was discovering that the Sky Spa remains open until 8:00 PM, which meant I still had almost another full hour to enjoy everything after my massage. Rather than getting dressed and leaving, I returned to the rooftop pool and relaxation area.

As the sun gradually disappeared behind the mountains, I spent the evening swimming in the infinity saltwater pool at sunset. The changing colors of the sky reflected in the water while the mountains slowly faded into evening light. It was peaceful, almost meditative, and one of those travel moments that no photograph can fully capture.

Afterward I settled once more into the relaxation room, looking out through the floor-to-ceiling windows as dusk fell over Merano.

I honestly cannot imagine a better way to end the day.

When I first planned this trip, I expected Merano to be a pleasant stop before the Dolomites.

Instead, it has quietly become one of the great surprises of the entire journey.

It offers something I didn’t even realize I needed after weeks of constant movement—a place where extraordinary natural beauty, thoughtful architecture, exceptional wellness and genuine relaxation all come together perfectly.

Sometimes the most memorable destinations aren’t the ones with the biggest monuments.

Sometimes they’re simply the ones that make you feel completely at peace.