Day 42 - September 29, 2026

From the Dolomites to the Heart of Umbria

Today marked the transition from the dramatic peaks of the Dolomites to the rolling hills of Umbria. It was a true travel day—one with a few unexpected adventures—but it all ended exactly the way I like: wandering beautiful streets, enjoying a wonderful dinner, and feeling excited about discovering a new region of Italy.

Leaving ADLER Dolomiti turned out to be more eventful than expected. My carefully planned journey began with an attempt to catch Bus 350 to Bolzano. When the bus arrived, however, it was already completely packed. There simply wasn’t enough room for passengers with luggage, and I had to watch it leave without me. It was one of those reminders that public transportation in popular mountain destinations can be unpredictable, especially during hotel checkout hours. Fortunately, the hotel quickly arranged a taxi. It wasn’t cheap—€125 for the ride to Bolzano—but with a reserved high-speed train to catch, it was money well spent and completely removed the stress of wondering whether another bus would have room. The drive through Val Gardena one last time was a beautiful farewell to one of my favorite places of the entire trip, and I reached Bolzano with plenty of time for my train.

The rail journey itself went smoothly for the most part, but not without a couple of adrenaline-filled moments.

The first came at Terontola-Cortona. As the train stopped, I discovered that the door nearest my seat refused to open. With only a brief stop at the station, I suddenly found myself racing through the carriage with my carry-on, backpack, and crossbody bag, hoping another door would work before the train departed. Thankfully it did, but those few seconds felt much longer than they really were.

The excitement wasn’t over yet. On the final regional train into Perugia, I realized I was once again in the wrong carriage to exit. As the train approached the station, I quickly gathered all my bags and hurried into the next car so I could step off before the doors closed. Thankfully I made it without incident, but by then I felt as though the journey had included one last travel challenge before welcoming me to Umbria.

Checking into Times Suites was easy, and before long I was wandering the medieval streets of Perugia for the first time.

My first impression was how dramatically different it felt from the Dolomites. Perugia rises gracefully over a hill, its narrow stone streets climbing between centuries-old buildings, with hidden stairways and unexpected little piazzas around every corner. I made my way to one of the panoramic viewpoints overlooking the Umbrian countryside, where layers of terracotta rooftops stretched toward soft green hills in the fading evening light. After days surrounded by towering limestone peaks, the gentler landscape felt like an entirely different Italy.

As darkness settled, I wandered through Piazza IV Novembre, admired the magnificent Fontana Maggiore, stood before the beautifully illuminated Palazzo dei Priori, and strolled along Corso Vannucci, where locals and students filled the cafés and streets late into the evening. The atmosphere felt vibrant yet relaxed—lively without being overwhelming. Before returning to the hotel, I paused once more at the panoramic terrace overlooking the Umbrian valleys. It was the perfect place to take in my first evening in this beautiful city.

Dinner was at I Birbi, a cozy local restaurant full of character. I began with Tortelli Ripieni di Squacquerone, Funghi di Stagione, Pesto di Rucola e Mandorle Tostate—delicate stuffed pasta filled with creamy Squacquerone cheese, served with seasonal mushrooms, arugula pesto, and toasted almonds. For my main course, I chose the wonderfully tender Pluma di Maiale Iberico de Bellota, paired with a glass of Viognier. The wine was light, fruity, and beautifully smooth—exactly the style I enjoy. While it wasn’t quite as gently sweet as my favorite white wines from France, it complemented both dishes perfectly and made for a memorable first dinner in Umbria.

Today wasn’t about checking off famous sights—it was about moving from one remarkable region of Italy to another. There were a few stressful moments, a few deep breaths, and a reminder that travel rarely unfolds exactly according to plan. Yet those little mishaps have a funny way of becoming the stories I remember most. Yesterday I was hiking beneath the towering cliffs of Seceda; tonight I was strolling through the medieval heart of Perugia with a glass of Italian wine still lingering in my memory. Italy has an incredible ability to reinvent itself from one region to the next, and today felt like turning the page to an entirely new chapter of this journey.