Day 38 - September 25, 2026 

From Merano to the Dolomites: Arrival at ADLER Spa Resort

Today was moving day. After four restorative nights in Merano, it was time to head into the heart of the Dolomites—to Ortisei and ADLER Spa Resort Dolomiti.

Although I was still recovering from whatever virus decided to accompany me on this trip, I finally felt like I had turned a corner. My Oura Ring stubbornly continued reporting “Major Signs” with elevated resting heart rate and body temperature, but the numbers were clearly trending in the right direction, and more importantly, I actually felt noticeably better. Progress.

The transfer itself turned into more of an adventure than expected.

I boarded the first bus from Merano to Bolzano, only to discover the ticket machine wasn’t working. The bus was packed, there was no luggage compartment underneath, and with my suitcase, backpack and still not feeling 100%, it was impossible to safely fight my way to the driver without abandoning my luggage. In the end I unintentionally rode the entire first bus without a ticket—not exactly my proudest public transportation moment, but certainly not for lack of trying.

The second bus to Ortisei was even busier.

Fortunately I was among the first at the entrance, because several people were left behind. I had to quickly jump off again after boarding to open the luggage compartment underneath, wrestle my suitcase inside, then scramble back onto the bus before it departed, all while making sure my backpack wasn’t left behind. Traveling alone with luggage while recovering from illness definitely earns extra credit.

By early afternoon I finally arrived in Ortisei and checked into ADLER Spa Resort Dolomiti.

The resort immediately felt special.

After skipping lunch during the transfer, I ordered a simple Caprese salad and resisted the temptation of the complimentary pastries at the bar—well… mostly resisted.

Rather than pushing myself to explore the town, I devoted the afternoon to discovering the spa.

The Salt Grotto was my first stop. Floating effortlessly in the warm, highly saline water beneath the soft lighting was wonderfully calming. Although the session was scheduled for ninety minutes, about twenty-five minutes of floating felt perfect, followed by another twenty-five minutes relaxing in the adjoining salt sauna.

From there I wandered into the adults-only textile-free spa island, discovering quiet relaxation rooms, beautiful saunas and finally the small panoramic pool overlooking the surrounding mountains. Swimsuits were required for the pool itself, creating an interesting contrast with the surrounding wellness area. Everything felt beautifully designed, peaceful and remarkably tasteful.

Dinner completely exceeded my expectations.

The evening menu beautifully reflected South Tyrolean cuisine while adding refined modern touches. I chose:

• Seared scallops with peas and crispy South Tyrolean speck.
• Plin of beef tail, served with saffron foam and morel mushrooms.
• Confit veal cheek with creamy polenta and Swiss chard.

Each course was elegant without trying too hard, perfectly cooked, and wonderfully balanced.

Alongside the menu was an impressive buffet filled with fresh salads, vegetables and seasonal accompaniments.

Then came the dessert room.

Calling it a dessert buffet almost feels unfair—it resembled a boutique pastry shop curated by a Michelin-level pastry chef.

Beautiful individual creations were displayed like jewelry: raspberry tartlets topped with fresh berries and pistachios, glossy chocolate mousse cakes, blackberry mousse pastries, miniature tiramisu served in glass jars, creamy semifreddo-style cakes, colorful lemon pastries with velvet finishes, tiny macarons, fresh passion fruit, peaches, apples, and traditional apple strudel.

Everything was presented in intentionally small individual portions, making it dangerously easy to convince yourself that “just one more” wouldn’t hurt.

I settled on a tiramisu and sampled a few additional miniature desserts—small enough to satisfy curiosity without completely abandoning moderation.

Not a bad compromise.

As first impressions go, ADLER set an incredibly high standard. Between the thoughtful wellness facilities, exceptional cuisine and relaxed atmosphere, I already understood why so many guests return here year after year.