Day 35 - September 22

Merano: History, Shopping and One of the Best Hotel Spas I’ve Ever Experienced

I woke up with my sore throat still present and congestion beginning to develop. My Oura Ring wasn’t particularly encouraging either, showing a low readiness score and clear signs that my body was under stress.

The good news: no fever.

So today’s goal became simple:

Explore Merano—but gently.

After a wonderful breakfast at Hotel Therme Meran, I walked into town.

Merano immediately felt different from anywhere else on the trip. It combines Alpine scenery with elegant Belle Époque architecture and an almost Mediterranean climate. Palm trees, flowers and beautiful promenades exist beneath towering mountains. It is an unusual and very charming combination.

I began at the magnificent Kurhaus, then wandered along the Passer Promenade and through the historic Wandelhalle, the elegant covered gallery decorated with paintings. I crossed the river, walked through beautiful Elisabeth Park, admired the theatre, and eventually reached the medieval Portici (Lauben) with its arcaded streets full of interesting little shops.

Naturally… I ended up shopping.

After trying several beautiful sweaters, including a cashmere model and another reversible design, I chose a wonderful 100% extra-fine reversible merino sweater by Ei’S / Letizia Denaro. The moss green, dusty pink and charcoal abstract pattern immediately stood out to me, and the fitted version looked significantly better than the looser model. It felt exactly like the kind of special piece I hoped to find somewhere in Europe rather than something I could buy back home.

Lunch was intentionally light—a shrimp salad at L’Insalatina—perfect after the generous hotel breakfast.

From there I continued to Duomo di San Nicolò, which turned out to be far more interesting than I expected. The Gothic church feels unmistakably Tyrolean rather than Italian and beautifully reflects Merano’s medieval history.

Even more fascinating was the adjacent St. Barbara Chapel. Inside were Gothic and Baroque altars alongside elaborate reliquaries containing the remains attributed to early Christian martyrs. One of them was identified as St. Paulanus. Seeing the richly decorated skeleton lying behind glass was both fascinating and slightly unsettling, especially after learning that the chapel had historically served as an ossuary connected to the old cemetery.

By early afternoon I returned to Hotel Therme Meran.

The remainder of the day became one of the true highlights of the trip.

The Sky Spa completely exceeded my expectations.

The rooftop infinity pool overlooks Merano and the surrounding mountains with breathtaking panoramic views. Unlike many hotel pools, it is actually long enough to swim proper laps and also features wonderful massage jets. Everything was peaceful and uncrowded.

I even spent some time in the bio sauna, which I found pleasantly warm rather than excessively hot.

At 4:00 PM I had my 75-minute Sleep Massage.

It was absolutely wonderful.

Exactly what my body needed after weeks of constant travel and yesterday’s marathon transfer.

After the massage I returned to what may be my favorite part of the spa—the extraordinary relaxation room. Comfortable loungers and sofas face floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the mountains, while water, teas, fruit and healthy snacks are available throughout the space. Every detail feels thoughtful, elegant and quietly luxurious.

I honestly felt that I could happily spend several days here.

Considering how much I normally love sightseeing, that’s saying something.

For dinner I stayed at La Piazza inside the hotel and enjoyed a comforting meal of soup with two traditional South Tyrolean bacon dumplings followed by the La Piazza shrimp salad.

Looking back, it was an almost perfect balance.

I wasn’t feeling completely healthy, yet I still experienced Merano’s history, architecture, atmosphere, found a wonderful souvenir to bring home, and spent an unforgettable afternoon in one of the finest hotel spas I’ve ever visited.

First impression of Merano: absolutely enchanting.