Day 22 - September 9, 2026

Besançon Surprises Me, and an Evening Welcome to Beaune

When I first planned this road trip through eastern France, Besançon was simply a convenient stop between Colmar and Beaune. I expected an attractive historic city, but I certainly didn’t expect it to become one of the biggest surprises of the trip.

From the moment we arrived, the city felt completely different from the postcard-perfect Alsatian towns of the previous days. Besançon has its own personality—elegant without trying to impress, remarkably green, and refreshingly free of crowds. The cooler weather was a welcome change after several hot days, and with no rain at all, it was perfect for wandering wherever the streets led us.

One of the things I loved most was simply how lived-in the city felt. Instead of navigating around tour groups, we wandered at our own pace, discovering beautiful streets, interesting shops, leafy squares, and quiet corners that invited us to slow down. It felt authentic rather than curated, and I found myself enjoying the atmosphere just as much as the sights.

Our first museum stop was the Musée du Temps (Museum of Time), housed in the beautiful Palais Granvelle. The museum itself is fairly small, but it contains several fascinating historical clocks and watches that illustrate Besançon’s long tradition of watchmaking. It was certainly worth visiting, although the biggest surprise of the day came immediately afterward.

Just a short walk away we wandered into Utinam, a contemporary clock gallery and workshop. I absolutely loved it. Instead of historical timepieces, the gallery showcased striking modern clocks—beautifully designed works of art that blurred the line between sculpture and functional design. Unexpectedly, I found myself enjoying Utinam even more than the museum itself. It was creative, elegant, and unlike anything I had seen before.

Lunch at L’Annexe became one of the culinary highlights of the trip. We decided to share two main courses so we could experience both sides of the menu. One featured exquisitely prepared sweetbreads (ris de veau) served with mushrooms and potatoes—rich, delicate, and perfectly cooked. The other showcased a refined trio of John Dory, salmon, and scallops, accompanied by fragrant chanterelle mushrooms in a silky sauce. Both dishes were outstanding, demonstrating exactly why French cuisine has earned its reputation for balancing simplicity with technical perfection.

Originally, I had hoped to visit the famous Citadel in the afternoon. But as the day unfolded, we simply kept wandering—browsing shops, exploring side streets, and enjoying the city itself. Eventually we realized there wasn’t enough time left, and surprisingly, I didn’t mind at all. Sometimes the best travel memories come from not trying to check every attraction off a list.

In the late afternoon we drove about an hour and a half to Beaune. We briefly considered stopping in Dole along the way but decided to save it for another trip and arrive before it became too late.

Our home for the next few nights is the voco Beaune – Cité des Vins, located just outside the historic center. The hotel immediately made a good first impression: spacious, comfortable rooms, easy parking, and even a spa and swimming pool. Although we’re not sure we’ll have time to use them, they’re certainly nice to have. It’s about a twenty-minute walk into the old town, which turned out to be a pleasant evening stroll.

Dinner at the hotel restaurant was intentionally light, although “light” by French standards is still wonderfully indulgent. We shared six classic Burgundy escargots, a delicate crab salad, and a wonderfully creamy Saint-Marcellin cheesefrom the restaurant’s cheese selection. Everything was beautifully prepared, and the fresh bread was so delicious that we happily enjoyed several pieces before wisely deciding to skip dessert. Two cups of fresh mint tea were the perfect ending.

Then came the restaurant’s fun tradition. At the end of the meal, guests are invited to roll a die. Roll a six, and one dish is removed from the bill. Naturally, I rolled a six on my first try! Thanks to a little good fortune, our excellent dinner cost only €32, making for a memorable welcome to Burgundy.

Before returning to the hotel, we walked into Beaune to begin exploring the town. The beautifully illuminated medieval streets were wonderfully atmospheric, and the lighting projections on the Hospices de Beaune made an unforgettable first impression. It was only a brief introduction, but enough to leave me excited for tomorrow’s exploration.

By the end of the day, my watch showed 20,888 steps. Considering how much exceptional French food I’ve been enjoying lately, it felt reassuring to know I’d earned every bite.