Day 28 — September 15, 2026

Vichy: Belle Époque Charm and a Spa Worth Returning For

Today Vichy completely changed my expectations. I had come primarily for its famous thermal spa, but by the end of the day I realized that what I loved most wasn’t the spa at all—it was the town itself. Vichy has an elegant, relaxed atmosphere, beautiful Belle Époque architecture, magnificent parks, and a feeling of old-world sophistication that makes it a pleasure simply to wander.

The day began with breakfast at the hotel. The breakfast was quite good, but the hotel itself continued to puzzle me. Despite its official five-star rating, it certainly didn’t feel like a true luxury property. The room had several odd design choices: the shower head in the bathtub was mounted so low that washing my hair was surprisingly difficult, there was no hair conditioner until I requested it from reception, and the lighting system made almost no sense—one switch controlled nearly all the lights, making it impossible to leave just a bedside light on. Comfortable enough, but definitely not the five-star experience I had expected.

After breakfast we spent the morning strolling through Vichy’s elegant streets, admiring its beautiful Belle Époque villas and grand hotels. The town has a graceful, leisurely character that immediately invites slow exploration. One of the highlights was visiting Notre-Dame-des-Malades, whose extraordinary interior completely surprised me. The colorful mosaics covering the church create a warm, luminous atmosphere unlike almost any church I’ve seen before. It quickly became one of my favorite churches of the trip.

We also browsed a few shops before stopping at the pharmacy, where I picked up several French skincare products: the SVR Physiopure Gelée facial cleanser, Florame Hydrating Serum, Florame Hydrating Cream, and Weleda Sensitive Hand Cream. I also bought the blouse I had been considering earlier for €39.99 and happily wore it later in the day with my brown Ruti pants—a combination I really liked.

Lunch was at Bouillon des Artistes, where we shared two hearty regional dishes: tender beef with vegetables and traditional Auvergne sausage with vegetables. Simple, comforting French cooking that hit the spot.

In the afternoon it was finally time for my signature treatment at the Thermes des Célestins. The experience began a little awkwardly. The first two parts of the treatment were enjoyable, but the logistics felt disorganized. Very little English was spoken, and after the second treatment my therapist actually said goodbye before I reminded him that I still had the final treatment booked. I was directed to wait in a corridor without really knowing whether I was in the right place, leaving me slightly confused.

Fortunately, everything changed when the final treatment began.

The four-hand massage under the Vichy shower was absolutely exceptional. Warm streams of thermal water flowed continuously over my body while two therapists worked in perfect synchronization. It was unlike anything I had experienced before—deeply relaxing, beautifully choreographed, and wonderfully soothing. It instantly became one of the most memorable spa treatments of the entire trip and completely redeemed the earlier organizational hiccups.

Dinner was another highlight of the day at Chez Lucienne, a charming restaurant where the menu changes daily and is simply written on a blackboard. We ordered what sounded like a pâté starter but instead received an incredible savory pie served with gratinéed potatoes. The buttery crust was outstanding, the creamy sauce absolutely delicious, and the whole dish was pure comfort food—simply to die for. We also shared a perfectly cooked hanger steak.

To drink, we compared two very different wines: an elegant Pinot Noir and my favorite discovery from southwest France, the Domaine Les Frères Laffitte Gros Manseng from Côtes de Gascogne. Sharing both glasses made for a fun comparison, and the aromatic, slightly sweet Gros Manseng remains one of my favorite wines of this entire journey.

Dessert was every bit as indulgent: the house specialty of warm brioche with salted caramel sauce and vanilla ice cream. The portion was enormous, but sharing it made it just right—and every bite was delicious.

After dinner we took a leisurely walk through the beautiful riverside park along the Allier. The peaceful paths, elegant landscaping, and soft evening light created the perfect ending to a wonderful day. I absolutely loved this part of Vichy.

Looking back, Vichy exceeded my expectations—but not in the way I had anticipated. While the spa facilities themselves were somewhat underwhelming and the organization could certainly be improved, the town more than made up for it with its beautiful architecture, outstanding parks, fascinating history, excellent food, and relaxed atmosphere. It is a place I would gladly return to—especially for another unforgettable four-hand Vichy shower massage—but next time I would choose a different hotel.