Day 27 - September 14, 2026

Belle Époque Elegance: From Moulins to Vichy

After a wonderful night’s sleep at the Mercure Hôtel de Paris in Moulins, we enjoyed another excellent breakfast before heading to one last attraction in the city: Maison Mantin. It turned out to be yet another highlight in a town that had already exceeded all of our expectations.

Our guided tour was wonderfully intimate—just four people—and conducted in excellent English by an enthusiastic guide who clearly loved sharing the remarkable story of the house. Built between 1894 and 1897 by the wealthy Louis Mantin, the mansion was intended to showcase both refined taste and the latest technological innovations of the era. It featured electricity, central heating, indoor plumbing, and even an early telephone, all surrounded by richly decorated rooms inspired by Renaissance, Gothic, Oriental, and Belle Époque styles.

What makes Maison Mantin so extraordinary is the owner’s unusual wish: after his death, he wanted the house to remain untouched so that future generations could see how a well-to-do gentleman lived at the end of the nineteenth century. The house was sealed for nearly a century before reopening, making it feel like an authentic Belle Époque time capsule. It was beautifully preserved, fascinating to explore, and one of the most enjoyable house museums I’ve visited.

For lunch we treated ourselves to the magnificent Grand Café, another jewel from Moulins’ Belle Époque heritage. The interior was absolutely stunning, with ornate ceilings, mirrors, gilded decorations, and elegant architectural details that transported us back to the early twentieth century. After several rich meals recently, today’s choice felt refreshingly healthy: a fresh salmon poke bowl accompanied by tea. We did, however, share a beautiful Pavlova topped with mixed berries, which proved impossible to resist.

Before leaving town, we briefly visited the second museum associated with Maison Mantin. It was interesting, but we only had time for a quick look before continuing our drive toward Vichy.

Our arrival in Vichy was another wonderful surprise. I knew it was famous as a spa town, but I wasn’t prepared for just how elegant and beautiful it would be. Wide boulevards, graceful Belle Époque architecture, beautifully maintained parks, and the relaxed atmosphere immediately made a wonderful first impression. The city has a completely different character from anywhere else we’ve visited in France—it truly feels like a grand historic spa resort.

After checking into the Vichy Célestins Spa Hotel, we headed to the thermal spa. I have to admit that my first impression was a little disappointing. The thermal pool was smaller than I had imagined, and the water wasn’t quite as warm as I had expected. Perhaps my expectations had simply become too high after hearing so much about Vichy. Even so, we still enjoyed a pleasant and relaxing visit, and it was a nice way to unwind after the drive.

Dinner required a bit of improvisation. Several restaurants we wanted to try were already fully booked, so we ended up choosing a random brasserie-pâtisserie next to the famous park. Fortunately, it turned out to be a very pleasant choice. We shared a salmon dish and an Italian salad with burrata, prosciutto, and sun-dried tomatoes—simple, fresh, and satisfying.

The real highlight of the evening came afterward. We wandered through beautifully illuminated Vichy, strolling beneath the trees and admiring the magnificent Belle Époque buildings glowing softly in the night. The city feels elegant without being pretentious, lively without being crowded, and wonderfully relaxing. It was one of those evenings where there was no need for a plan—simply walking and soaking in the atmosphere was enough.

Although my first impression of the Célestins Spa itself was a little mixed, tomorrow I’m scheduled for the spa’s signature Trio treatment, including the famous Vichy shower and a synchronized four-hand massage. I’m hopeful that this experience will fully live up to Vichy’s legendary reputation and perhaps redeem my first impression of the spa.

If today was about first impressions, then Vichy has already won me over. The town itself is every bit as elegant and charming as I’d hoped, and I have a feeling the next few days are going to be something special.