Day 26 - September 13, 2026

An Unexpected Gem: Discovering Moulins

Some of the most memorable places on a trip are the ones you almost never visit. Moulins is exactly that kind of place.

When planning this journey through France, Moulins wasn’t even on our itinerary. We had originally intended to drive straight through, but somewhere along the way we decided to spend a night here instead. Looking back, it was one of the best spontaneous decisions of the trip.

After a peaceful night in Bourbon-Lancy, we enjoyed breakfast before setting off toward Moulins. Along the way, we stopped in a small French town for lunch, where I enjoyed a classic crêpe complète with ham, egg, and cheese. Simple, comforting, and quintessentially French—it was the perfect lunch for a leisurely day on the road.

Arriving in Moulins, we immediately sensed that this was a town with an elegance and history far beyond what we had expected. Quiet streets, handsome buildings, beautiful squares, and almost no crowds created a wonderfully relaxed atmosphere that invited us to slow down and explore.

Our first stop was the magnificent Moulins Cathedral (Cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-l’Annonciation). While the cathedral itself is impressive, its greatest treasure is the celebrated Triptych of the Virgin in Glory, one of the masterpieces of French Renaissance painting. Knowing the history of the Bourbon dynasty and seeing this extraordinary work in its original setting made the visit especially meaningful.

A short walk brought us to the Sacré-Cœur Church, whose lighter and more modern architecture provided an interesting contrast to the cathedral while fitting beautifully into the character of the town.

One of the day’s biggest surprises was the Centre National du Costume de Scène, France’s National Center for Stage Costume. I hadn’t expected to enjoy it nearly as much as I did. The museum tells the story of French opera, ballet, and theatre through thousands of beautifully crafted costumes, while also housing the remarkable collection of legendary dancer Rudolf Nureyev. Even without being particularly knowledgeable about theatre, it was impossible not to admire the extraordinary craftsmanship and artistry behind every piece.

By late afternoon we checked into the Mercure Hôtel de Paris, which turned out to be another excellent surprise. The hotel combines historic charm with modern comfort, and our room was spacious, elegant, and exceptionally comfortable. It was exactly the kind of place that makes you wish you had another night to stay.

For dinner we chose Le Bivouak, where I discovered what may have been my favorite white wine of the entire trip: Domaine Les Frères Laffitte IGP Côtes de Gascogne 2023. It was everything I love in a wine—beautifully aromatic, bursting with fruit, fresh, vibrant, and with just the right amount of sweetness. That single glass later sent me down a fascinating rabbit hole exploring the wines of southwest France and helped me better understand exactly the styles I enjoy most.

As the day came to an end, we both agreed that Moulins had been one of the greatest surprises of our French journey. It isn’t a city that appears on many travelers’ must-see lists, yet it offered outstanding museums, fascinating history, beautiful architecture, excellent food, and a wonderfully authentic atmosphere free from crowds.

Sometimes the best travel memories aren’t made in the famous destinations you’ve dreamed about for years. They’re found in places you almost skipped entirely. For us, Moulins became one of those unexpected discoveries—a reminder that leaving room for spontaneity often leads to the richest experiences.